Painting your model is the last bit of finishing and it’s the part most noticed. For great results use the same paint as used on full size airplanes. stits.com is the place to get the stuff. Poly Tone paint works great and is designed to work with the heat shrinkable Poly Fiber covering.

That big radial engine cowl reaaly benefits from a dummy engine installation. If you don’t have the cash for a Robart 4-stroke 7-cylinder radial engine, there are plenty of resin cast dummy engines that will hep cover up your RC gas engine. And the finer details like proper color, lifter rod tubes and spark plugs and wiring all add to the appearance.

So, you do have to get inside the airplane to work with and maintain the radio gear and linkages, so why not add functional cabin doors. These work great and give easy access to the internal parts. A removable cabin interior helps hide the RC hardware.

For the various RC radio gear and engine ignition switches placing them in a secluded area like here between the fuselage firewall and the engine cowling, greatly improves the model’s looks. They are just as accessible as they would be if you had just cut holes in the side of the fuselage and installed there there. Of course that ruins the scale looks of any airplane.

As with most Ziroli designs, the Staggerwing is designed to use the custom made Robart Staggerwing gear. Besides saving a ton of time and effort, the Robart gear work great and are very scale in appearance.

Those wheel also look great and are machined from aluminum.

The post Super-Scale Beechcraft Staggerwing appeared first on Model Airplane News.

While reading through an old issue of Model Airplane News, I came across an article about float-flying off water. It started me thinking about how much fun it would be to fly off snow with skis. First on my agenda was to pick some suitable subjects to modify for ski installation. That was the easy part, because my Stinson L-5 Sentinel and Cessna L-19 Bird Dog were just begging to get out of winter storage and be drafted back into service. They are both 1/4-scale tail-draggers and are very suitable for trudging through snow. After working out a few logistics, I cleared a spot on the drafting table and got started. My intent was to come up with a ski design that was simple, easy to build and would use up some of that “leftover” material we all seem to have lying around the shop.

SKI DESIGN
To get a better feel for the design requirements for skis, I took a quick look through some full-size aviation magazines for possible articles on winter flying. I came across an issue of the EAA magazine Sport Aviation. This particular issue had a short article about winter flying with skis. The article contained some neat color photos of two Piper J-3 Cubs on a snow-covered runway at a grass field. The J-3 is probably the most common aircraft that’s outfitted with different brands of skis, and this supplied me with a few ideas on designing a simple, yet effective, set of skis for my own 1/4-scale models.

After measuring the skis and fuselages of the Cubs in the photos, I calculated their comparative lengths, and used these figures to plan the dimensions of my skis. I then generated a rough draft of the full-size drawings for the 1/4-scale skis following the tried-and-true “That looks-about-right” formula (here’s to good old eyeball engineering!). The length of the skis would be approximately 50 percent of the fuselage length, and the axle pivot point would be at 30 to 40 percent of the ski length aft of the ski nose. For the width, I just picked a number that felt right.

MATERIALS
The materials I used for the skis are well-known by all modelers and, depending on the weight of your model, the skis can be made of 1/18, 3/16 or 1/4-inch-thick lite-ply or luane (the plywood material used to skin interior household doors). For models that weigh up to about 15 pounds, use 1/8-inch thick material. For models of 25 pounds or more, I recommend 1/4-inch-thick material (both the L-5 and L-19 are in the lower 20s, so I chose to use 1/4-inch thick lite-ply). I’ve found that metal skis generally mean trouble because snow really likes to stick to cold metal. Wooden skis seem to work better; but just be sure you sand the bottoms silky smooth, seal them well with polyester resin, polyurethane, or epoxy and then apply a good grade of wax. We’ve successfully used beeswax, as well as high-grade automotive paste wax. The wax will prevent the snow from sticking and also will allow the model to really slide across the snow.

Lay out the patterns on a flat piece of material and cut the outlines to shape. To get the nose of the ski to bend up and match the curve of the stiffener, a series of cuts is made across the skis top surface. These cuts are only 1/2 the material thickness deep and are only required in the nose area that needs to bend. This process is called “kerffing‚” and I simply used a utility knife to score these cuts. Just prior to bending this kerfed area, I also fill the cuts with glue so that when all the glue sets, this area will be nice and strong. The center stiffener and the two axle mounts are made of various types of plywood. For 1/4-scale models, the center stiffener is 1/2-inch thick, exterior grade, house-construction plywood, and the two axle mounts are 1/4-inch thick, aircraft plywood. I also like to add spacers to each side of the axle supports so that the final thickness is the same as the wheels that I use on that model. This makes the process of switching from wheels to skis and back again, very easy and fast.

The entire assembly is glued together with 20-minute epoxy and clamped in place to cure. After curing, all the areas are sanded and then coated with epoxy and sanded again. Next, they are painted with a couple of coats of paint and topped off with some clear polyurethane or epoxy.

FUSELAGE CONSIDERATIONS
 One of the neatest things about this design is the ease with which you can switch from wheels to skis. This is very important when you get that unexpected snowfall and last-minute calls from your flying buddies to meet them at the field. It will take only a few minutes to change from wheels to skis.

There is only one modification needed for the fuselage; two pairs of eyehooks need to be installed to act as attachment points for the cables. Install two in front of the landing gear, one on each side. Attach the skis, nose bungee and safety cable (more on these later) to these eyehooks ahead of the landing gear. The other two eyehooks go aft of the landing gear, (again, one on each side of the fuselage), the rear-extension limiting cables will be attached to these. To make these attachments sturdy, I simply epoxy some hardwood blocks inside the fuselage and permanently screw the eyehooks into place (see photos). I leave these in place all year long, so I do not have to make any changes when the weather makes an unexpected turn. I painted these eyehooks to match the fuselage and this way, they just get camouflaged and disappear very nicely.

SKI SETUP
To set up your skis properly, there are two basic, yet very important alignments to maintain.

Toe-in: The skis must be parallel to each other, as well as to the fuselage centerline (a function of the landing gear-axle toe-in adjustment).

Angle of attack: The skis’ angle of attack must be approximately 10 degrees positive while the aircraft is in flight (a function of the bungee and aft limiting-cable adjustments).

The nose bungee is big rubber bands that lift the tips of the skis. To limit how high the ski noses rise, you have to adjust the lengths of the rear-limiting cables. I like to make these adjustments on the workbench with the skis mounted on the axles (held in place with wheel collars) and the airplane’s tail propped up. To get the required 10 degrees of ski nose-up attitude, I keep the skis flat on the bench and then raise the tails that the plane’s nose is set at a flight attitude of negative 10 degrees. A stack of paint cans works very well here! If you’ve set everything up properly, when you lift the model off the bench, the bungee cords will lift the noses of the skis and make the aft limiting cable taut. When the model is placed on the ground, the aft cables should slacken and the skis should lie flat. It’s important that they also be able to pivot freely on the axles. As an added safety measure, I suggest you run a safety cable alongside the nose bungee. This cable is adjusted when the model is sitting on the ground in the normal “at rest” attitude. The safety cable is attached at the same spots as the bungee, yet at this attitude, this cable should be taut. The idea here is that in the event of a bungee failing, you do not want the ski to turn nose-down on you in flight as it makes for a very messy landing. To make it easy to attach the bungee cords and cables, I install line connectors or some other form of “quick-disconnect” device at the fuselage attachment points. Old control-line connectors work well and you might also find similar connectors in a fishing-tackle store.

To make it easier to remove the wheels from my models, I replace the usual wheel collars with cotter pins that go into small holes drilled through the end of the axles.

TIPS ON SNOW FLYING
 With all the shop work finished, now it’s time to head to the field. The toughest part is waiting for the snow and then having it arrive at just the right time, like on a Friday night so that Saturday can be a day at the field with nice fresh snow. I live on Long Island, NY, and we don’t usually get much snow, but last winter we had so much snow that it was difficult to get to the field! Regardless of how much snow we get, when we get an opportunity like this, the “Snow Bird Squadron” gets together and makes it to the field for some really great, off-ski flights.

When flying off snow, remember these tips:

• You’ll need to apply slightly more power to taxi. If you have no ski attached to the tail wheel, the rudder will also need a blast of power for turning.
• You’ll need more power for takeoff, and the skis will have to “plane” on the snow before you’ll be able to build up air speed. To overcome torque, apply the throttle gradually and smoothly and feed in the rudder as required (just as if you were flying off a green runway). You may need a bit more elevator to prevent the model from attempting to nose over, but once the speed builds up and the skis are “on plane” you’ll be able to release the elevator. When it’s equipped with skis, your model will not fly as fast because skis increase drag. When flying with wheels, don’t expect to pull up as steeply.
• Increase power during landings and use a slightly nose-high, three-point, or wheel-landing approach to keep the tips of the skis up. For short-field operations with my L-5, I particularly like the “I have arrived, three-point, plop-type” of landing. The fun part for me is just shooting touch-and-go’s one after another.

Using scale-snow skis is a really easy way to extend your flying season. Before heading out, make sure all your radio gear is up to snuff. Cold weather wreaks havoc with batteries, as well as people. Just dress warmly, you don’t want frostbitten ears, toes or flying thumbs and be sure to take along some hot coffee or hot chocolate. Oh yes, and sunglasses are definitely in order. Enjoy!

Here are all the wooden parts cut out for one set of skis (see text for details).

Closeup view of the kerf cuts and how they help to bend the nose up to match the curve of the center support.

All the parts glued and clamped in place to cure. Lead bars and clamps (and anything else that is heavy) aid the process.

Another means of  “clamping”  the assembly is to use anything from around the shop that is heavy such as a can of Bondo or old car parts.

Close up of the axle attachment area with filler pieces between the uprights and on the outsides to make the attachment area the same width as the wheel originally used. Note the cotter pin and washer. Very easy installation.

With fuselage propped up so the nose is slightly down you can see the rear attachment cable is taught and the front bungee stretched.

Same as photo 6 but fuselage attachment points can also be seen.

Roy Vaillancourt designed and built this 1/4-scale Stinson L-5. It weighs 21 pounds and is powered by a US-41 engine. Latex paint (but of course).

Roy Vaillancourt designed and built this 1/4-scale Stinson L-5. It weighs 21 pounds and is powered by a US-41 engine. Latex paint (but of course).

The post Easy Scratch-built Skis (fly off the snow!) appeared first on Model Airplane News.

LET’S GET STARTED
First of all, when holding your radio during your flight, it’s a good idea to have the “standard” position on all switches be “away” from you. Another way to say this is to have the switches located on the top of your transmitter toward the back of the case and those on the front of the transmitter toward their top position. Establishing this allows you to always return to your most comfortable flying parameters should your flight get on the edge of your control abilities for whatever reason.

EXPONENTIAL
Simply stated, exponential in our radios gives stick inputs a softer “feel” around the center of stick travel. The greater distance we move the stick away from center, the less effect any programmed expo has.  Expo works in concert with rate settings and is another piece of the puzzle in getting your radio controls exactly the way you want them.

Sneaking up on how much expo to use is a good way to do it if you’ve never tried it before.  Entering a 10% value would be a good start. You will hardly notice that amount of input on the bench or in the air.  But once you figure out the procedure for setting it, there’s no mystery about going into the menus and increasing it to +15 or +20, or even more. Some of the best pilots use +70 or more on expo to fly 3D.  Most sport flyers will and should be in the range of +20 to +40. The type of aircraft you fly will determine how much expo you should use, if any. Even trainer aircraft and novice fliers can use some expo to advantage.

Have no fear of exponential. The softer feel around stick center will make you a smoother flier; just don’t overdo it. For most helicopters, it’s a must. For most sport aircraft and sport fliers, it really helps a lot in advancing your flying skills.

DUAL RATES
Dual rates are one of the neat features of our modern radios. The elevator dual rate switch is usually in the upper left front corner of the transmitter; the aileron switch is in the upper right front corner; and the rudder switch, if you have one, is in the upper right top. The purpose of these switches is to establish a limited servo travel position when the switch is moved to either of its two positions. For example, the switch “away” from you might give 100% servo travel, and if you click it toward you, your dual rate setting might provide 70% travel of that same servo (surface).

Here’s a specific example. Let’s say you are flying a tail-dragger and that you need to input small amounts of rudder on takeoffs. You might program your standard position rudder rate at 70% of available rudder throw (the switch would be away from you, toward the back of the transmitter). Your second rate might be 100% (or even more) so that when you want to fly aerobatics, clicking the switch forward will give you almost double the throw on rudder. The result of this setup is that your ground handling and basic maneuvers will be very smooth on your standard setting, but your rudder authority for maneuvers will be very powerful on your high rate setting. The amount of travel that you set needs to be adjusted after flight experimentation. As you know, servo arm and surface horn length are also factors that control surface deflection amounts. Programming “rates” are the final step in tuning your aircraft to your liking.

Dual rates are not to be ignored!  This feature is an important component provided by our modern radios that make us smoother, more accomplished fliers. They are easy to program, and even the beginner-level transmitters sport dual rates. Top shelf radios have triple rates! Several radios can combine all rates on one switch.  In my opinion, that’s a really nice feature that might be used after[ITAL] you program individual rates/switches and get them where you want them. Then, one switch sets all three surfaces to do either high or low settings, or any combination you want.

MIXING
Mixing presents more of a challenge. It also requires more patience to get it the way we want it, but the effort is worth it.

Most modern radios feature mixing circuitry. Some radios even have pre-programmed mixes.  One of the examples of how mixing can help make you a better pilot is the knife-edge mix between rudder and elevator. Knife-edge flight is a very cool maneuver, and really cool when you don’t have to constantly input elevator to hold the plane in position as it flies down the flightline on its side! So how is this accomplished?

Let’s start by assuming you have the rate switch the way you want it. That means it’s set to hold the nose of your aircraft up a bit and level with the ground as the plane flies by you rolled over on its side. You might have fine-tuned your “normal” rate setting to achieve this. Now let’s get more specific. Let’s say you are at the field, and the wind is blowing right to left. You are going to fly your knife-edge maneuver from left to right, into the wind. You enter by giving the aircraft right aileron, making it bank to the right a quarter turn, and left rudder to hold up the nose.  All is going well at first, but in a second or two you see the nose of the plane going off line and pulling toward the canopy as you fly by. You need to correct with a bit of down-elevator. After a few passes, you get the feel of what is required to make the knife-edge look good. But you are constantly correcting, and the flyby looks ragged when you over/under-correct. The solution to this condition is a rudder/elevator mix.

What you need to do is program about 5% of down-elevator to automatically input into your aircraft when you hold rudder. Since you don’t want this to happen all the time when you use rudder, you put the mix on a switch on the transmitter. Now, just before entering knife-edge, you hit the switch, roll a quarter turn, and when you enter your rudder command, the elevator deflects downward to whatever value you have entered in the mixing program. Five percent is a good starting point, but it may take more or less, and sometimes it may even take a “negative” mix, meaning the plane was moving toward the landing gear, not the canopy.  In that case, you program up-elevator mixed with rudder. It sounds complicated, but it really isn’t.  The best advice is for you to read the manual that came with the radio, and try it on the bench, then out at the field.  I like to take some written notes also, so when I get to the field I can remember what I did, and how to add or subtract more input if necessary.

There are many mixes you can use. Flap/elevator is a common one, and so is aileron/spoilers.  Give mixing a try; like rates and expo, you are going to like it when you get it right.

Most important, any radio inputs or changes should be done by you, the modeler, owner, and flier of the radio and aircraft.  It’s OK and even preferred if someone with experience is looking over your shoulder, giving instructions or making suggestions, but don’t let them make the changes. Hands-on experience is a basic tenet of effective learning.

We have these features and many more in our radios. It might be time for you to give them a detailed look, with the goal of making your flying the best it can be.  Master your radio; don’t let it master you!

By Tony Ianucelli

The post Fly better with dual rates, expo & mixing appeared first on Model Airplane News.

We used the landing gear itself as a spacer for the rails and plywood ribs, so we know they will fit perfectly into place after the wing panels have been sheeted. I even added an extra 1/8 inch of space so there’s a little wiggle room in case we need to tweak the gear’s position for proper toe in measured at the axles.

After getting the support ribs and rails in place, I added a lite ply support doubler to the W-6R rib which has it mid-section cut away to clear the wheel and forms the wheel-well area. Also at this point it is a good time to go over the entire wing structure and sand everything smooth and flush.

Also where the main spar is recessed to clear the strut when the mains are retracted, I added a 1/4-inch plywood doubler for additional support . This part, like the gear rails is epoxied into place

Sheeting 101

To get started, look at your plans and estimate how much sheeting you will need to cover your wing panels. For this project I am using medium-grain 3/32-inch x 4-inch wide x 48-inch long sheeting. You should have a good supply of no. 11 X-Acto blades.

I start by first truing the edges of my sheeting by cutting a small amount, (1/16- to 1/8-inch), from the side edges using a sharp blade and a long metal straight edge. This allows the seams between the sheeting to be tight and minimizes the gaps.

I start with the bottom, aft sheet which forms the wing’s trailing edge. I cut it to length, pin it over the plans and then pin the wing structure over it. I then tack glue a couple of ribs along the  length of the wing panel to the sheeting. This is the easiest piece to apply as you have full access to the wing structure. Once this is in place, I add the next piece of sheeting that is cut to cover the area from the Trailing edge piece to the main spar.

You can start anywhere, but I like to begin at the tip rib, applying Zap medium glue to the rib and sheeting, hitting with a little Kicker, then moving inboard one rib at a time. The important thing here is to not force anything while gluing the structure to the sheeting so you don’t warp the wing. The washout was built into the wing when it is assembled over the plans and supported with alignment shims. We will recheck the washout again before applying the wing’s top sheeting.

Here you see the next piece of bottom sheeting. It is made by gluing two sheets together as mentioned above to cover the area from the front edge of trailing edge sheeting to the center of the main spar. Start by taping the pieces together with painter’s tape as shown above.

Flip the sheeting over, and prop the seam up so it opens like a book, apply some yellow glue like Titebond, and scrap away any access.

Weigh the sheeting down and let the glue dry. If there is still access glue at the joint, use a damp sponge to clean it away. Once the glue has dried, lightly sand the joint with a sanding bar then cut the piece of sheeting to size.

Here the sheeting has been taped to the trailing edge sheeting piece and the front edge is glued and clamped to the main spar. Again, there should be no stress or pressure causing the wing to twist out of shape.

With the center piece of sheeting taped and clamped into place, flip the wing panel over and start gluing it to the ribs and stringers. I use Titebond at the main spar, and Zap medium CA for the rest of the rib bottoms applied from above.

At this point I added the alignment dowels to the ribs that form the separation line for the outer wing panels that will plug into the wing center section. Here the fixed end of the front dowel is secured with a square of 1/4-inch plywood.

The receiver end of the dowel is supported with a square of 1/8 inch lite plywood glued to the rib, but not the dowel.

Above you see the same treatment for the aft wing panel alignment dowel.

Here you see the two W-10 plywood ribs forming the separation line between them.

Other internal parts that need to be glued in place are the wing hold-down screw support block shown above. I made it from 3/4 inch thick poplar, cutting, and sanding it to shape so it fits flush between the upper and lower sheeting.

Also before we can cover the front section of the wing panel forward of the main spar, we have to epoxy the outer wing panel attachment bolt support blocks in place between the wing tube socket tube and the bottom wing sheeting.

To keep the blocking flush with the main spar, I used an alignment piece weighted down with a piece of lead. This ensures that the pieces are securely epoxied together and that the sheeting will fit flush over the blocking. After the wing has been completely sheeted, I will drill a hole through the sheeting and blocking, into the aluminum wing tube. This will then be threaded to accept the attachment bolt.

The lower leading edge sheeting is applied in the same way as before. Cut the sheeting to length and shape and tape the pieces together, Here the short sections inboard of the landing gear area is shown.

Apply yellow glue to the top of the spar and the ribs and then tape and pin the sheeting into place. I also tape the leading edge tightly over the sub-leading edge strip and use some clamps to form a tight seam. Now let dry.

(Above) So, again the sheeting for the lower leading edge forward of the main spar, outboard of the landing gear rails, has been cut to size, glued together, weighted down to dry and then sanded smooth .

Here all of the bottom sheeting has been installed on the left wing panel. The area near the root ribs is left unsheeted so the two panels can later be epoxied together and the two plywood dihedral joiners inserted and glued on place.

Before gluing the top sheeting in place, install all the other items like hard-points for the drop tank pylons, and so forth. Once the top sheeting is in place, you won’t be able to get to them.

So now we do the same for the wing’s top sheeting. Glue and tape the pieces together, sand smooth, cut to size and glue the section of sheeting in place with Titebone yellow glue. Apply the glue to the top of all the ribs and the spar but be careful not to get any glue in the separation line between the two W-10 ribs. I added just a small amount to the every edges of these ribs as more glue can be added when the inner and outer wing panels are cut apart and separated.

Here you see the aft sheeting is cut to end at the centerline of the main spar. The sheeting is cut so the grain runs parallel to the trailing edge.

These cuts in the bottom sheeting are guides for the cut line between the main wing and the removable wing tip sections. They were cut through before the top sheeting was applied.

Also before the top sheeting is glued in place, the trailing edge of the bottom sheeting must be sanded to bevel the edge so it is flush with the wing ribs. The provides a good purchase for the top sheeting to glued to.

To keep the trailing edges straight while the glue dries, I add a straight piece of wood under it and clamp and pin the trailing edge to it. be careful not to glue this support piece in place. Wipe away any glue that oozes out.

Also before the top sheeting is glued in place, I marked the cut lines with a pen for the ailerons and the flaps. This makes the task of removing the control surfaces much easier and cleaner.

Also before installing the front top sheeting to the wing, add any pieces that will be covered up. Here you see the vertical sheer webbing being glued into place.

Here the right wing is shown with the sheeting weighed down with Scuba diving shot bag weights. As the top sheeting is applied the wing structure must be placed back onto the washout alignment shims so the wing retains its proper shape.

Here you see the tip end of the wing. It shows the shim strips as well as 1/4 inch thick shims added to raise the panel above the workbench. When we added the landing gear mount rails they protrude below the surface of the wing so the additional shims are required so they clear the work surface. The shims run along the main spar as well as the under the washout shim strips.

Once the sheeting has dried, you again prepare the sheeting for the top section forward of the main spar. Here above, you see it pinned to the main spar and taped down onto the sub-leading edge strips. Once the glue has dried, your will sand the front of the wing panel smooth and straight and add the 1/4 inch leading edge material and then plane and sand it smooth to complete the wing.

Here’s the completed left wing panel with the shaped leading edge in place. I have installed the Hangar 9 Angle Pro digital level to check the washout of the wing panel.

With the panel blocked up so it won’t move, I zeroed out the reading at the root rib.

I then moved the level to the wingtip and checked the reading. The plans call for -2 degrees of washout and this shows it is spot on. The trick however is to have your other wing panel come out with the same amount.

So here we are, both wing panels have been sheeted and and the root section as shown above has been left open on the bottom. This will allow us to glue the wing panels together and then inset and epoxy the plywood dihedral braces in place to strengthen the wing structure.

Here the plywood dihedral braces are being epoxied into place. Slow setting epoxy is being used so there is time to make sure the alignment of the two wing panels is correct before the adhesive cures.

The wing panels have been glued together and the wing is now ready to be installed on the fuselage.

Check out the Ziroli Plans website at: https://ziroligiantscaleplans.com/

The post Warbird Wing Sheeting appeared first on Model Airplane News.

GASOLINE

RC engines that use gasoline are no different in operation as those in chainsaws and leaf blowers. If you treat them properly and set them up correctly, they will run reliably. Gasoline engines come in a variety of displacement sizes, and all of them are easy to start and are user-friendly. One of the more important tasks is to set up the throttle linkage and the throttle servo’s endpoints (travel) so that the carburetor opens and closes completely over the entire throttle stick’s travel. Avoid setups where the carburetor is fully open when the throttle stick is not at full power. And remember, if your engine begins to act up and run erratically, land immediately or, if still on the ground, don’t take off. Make sure that all the screws and bolts for the carburetor and muffler are tight and then check your fuel lines, filters, and carburetor.

NO BREAK-IN NEEDED

Gasoline engines have been around for a long time, and they are viewed by many as the best choice for ease of operation. The best thing about gasoline engines is that they are designed to be run without first having to be broken in like glow engines. Bench running is not so much about breaking in your engine as it is about getting to know your engine and not being rushed at the flying field.

PROPER FUEL MIXTURES

When it comes to lubrication for gasoline engines, just like with any 2-stroke, you need to mix oil into your gas. The best thing to do is to read the instructions and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Typical mix ratios are from 25:1 to 50:1, depending on the oil used. Some specialty synthetics can be mixed at 100:1. There are lots of great-performing, high-quality standard 2-stroke engine oils to choose from, and if you can’t find something at your local hobby shop, you’ll find them in small-engine shops and motorcycle- and marine-equipment outlets.

“I have been flying with gasoline engines since the late 1980s, and I have enjoyed excellent performance and extended engine service while using Honda HP2 high-performance synthetic 2-stroke engine oil. I have never had any fouled carburetor passages, and even after the engines have sat idle for years, they fire right up.”—Gerry Yarrish

Regardless of the fuel-to-oil mixture ratio you use, it is important to use good-quality oil. Cheap oil can risk the health of your engine. The 40cc RCGF 40T engine is shown at the lower left.

It is very important to keep your gasoline engine fuel clean and stored in a container that has a filter in the supply line.

“After 24 years of servicing giant-scale gas engines, we strongly recommend Redline Two-Stroke Racing Oil, mixed at 40:1 for all Desert Aircraft engines. It leaves little to no residue in the engine, while lubricating extremely well. Ring grooves stay clean, eliminating stuck ring issues, and bearing life is excellent.” —Dave Johnson

CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS

Even when using gasoline-grade fuel tank hardware and fuel lines (Sullivan Products shown here), be sure to secure the fuel line inside and out with some clamps or cable ties, as shown here.

We all know that you don’t want to run any engine lean! This overheats your powerplant and can lead to expensive engine damage or, even worse, the loss of your entire airplane. With new engines, it is wise to use a test stand before bolting the engine to an airplane. This way, it’s easy to work out linkage setups and fuel-line clearances and to test various propellers using a digital tachometer. Set the top end for maximum rpm without going too lean in the fuel mixture. For the idle adjustment, adjust the idle setscrew for as low and reliable rpm as possible while maintaining a smooth transition to full power.

SPARK PLUGS

“Our common 2-stroke gas/oil mixture engines used in giant-scale models are pretty simple to troubleshoot. All they need are air, fuel, and spark to make them come alive. If an engine won’t start or even “pop,” you may have a spark issue. There are two types of spark-producing accessories on our engines, Magneto and ignition module, but before you dig any deeper, check out the spark plug. Is there fuel present on the electrodes? Also, what is the condition of the spark plug? There have been times when my engine would not start due to carbon bridging—a carbon deposit between the ground and center electrode. This is a good indication that you are running an oil-rich mixture. Once removed and cleaned, you’re back in business.”—Sal Calvagna

PROPER FUEL LINES

“Always use only a gasoline-grade fuel tank, fuel lines, and fittings. You might get away with not doing so once or twice, but if you use a silicone ‘glow fuel’ system setup, the gasoline will degrade it. Eventually, the tank stopper and fuel lines will begin leaking, or worse, the goo in the tank will clog your carburetor. Always use Tygon or other fuel line specifically designed for gasoline. Even when using the correct type of fuel line, remember that, over time, they will become hard and lose flexibility. It is a good practice to change internal fuel tank ‘clunk’ lines because of this. Don’t forget, also, to secure your lines with tie wire or zip-ties.”
—Kevin Siemonsen

If your gas engine suddenly becomes harder to start and the carburetor more difficult to adjust, check the internal fuel screen under the side plate. Chances are that it is dirty. So clean it or, better yet, replace it with a new one.

While setting up your gasoline engine and adjusting the carburetor settings, it is best to bench-run the engine before installing it in your giant-scale airplane.

MULTIENGINE SUCCESS

“The most important thing to consider when flying twins is engine reliability. I have hundreds of flights on my P-38 and my Black Widow and have never suffered an engine-out. This is because I take the time to set the engines up properly. To keep the engines running reliably, you must supply them with clean fuel. I see it all the time at the flying field: An engine quits because the filter screens inside the carb are clogged and fuel flow suffers. I always use two filters in my fuel container: a felt clunk filter and an in-line paper filter. Clunk filters backed up with in-line filters between the engines and the model’s fuel tanks are standard equipment on all my models. Clean, well-filtered fuel is also very important for glow-engine aircraft. I use industrial-grade filters that you can buy at most small-engine and lawn-mower shops. They are good insurance and should always be used.” —Nick Ziroli Sr.

GLOW

The typical model airplane engines used for decades, glow engines using methanol-based fuel are the gold standard for all sizes of model airplanes. From small .049ci to over 2ci (and larger) displacements, glow engines get the job done. In simple terms, 2-stroke glow engines are popular because they have relatively few moving parts, do not require a separate ignition system, and are easy to start and maintain. When properly broken in and tuned, they produce amazing power.

The proper care and feeding starts with the break-in, and this will take several tanks of fuel, depending on the type and brand of engine. The type of engine you have is usually identified with three letters (ABC, for example), which refers to the kinds of materials that the engine’s piston and sleeve assembly are made of. “ABC” means an aluminum piston (A) fitted into a brass sleeve (B) that has been chrome-plated (C). Another popular type of glow engine is an “AAC,” which refers to an aluminum engine (A) fitted into an aluminum sleeve (A) that has been chrome-plated (C). Some engines use simple aluminum pistons, while others can be equipped with a steel piston ring, so it is always best to follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for break-in.

BREAK-IN

Glow engines come in various sizes and setups. This Evolution .60 2-stroke comes with a separate high-end needle valve behind the engine. It is connected to the carburetor with a short length of glow-fuel-compatible fuel line.

Engine break-in is the process of slowly conditioning the internal parts of the engine so that they fit more precisely together. Even though some manufacturers suggest that you can break in your engine while flying your model with a rich fuel mixture, it’s a lot safer—and you will have more control over the first few initial engine runs—if you run it on the ground with the airplane secured by the tail. Keep your glow engine fed with clean, filtered fuel. Install a fuel filter between the engine and the fuel tank, and use another filter in your fuel-supply container.

At the end of the day, empty your fuel tank and run out the last bit of fuel in the tank by running the engine. Never leave old fuel in the tank for long periods of time. Also, use some after-run oil after the last flight of the day. Adding a few drops down the carburetor and into the glow plug hole will lube the piston and sleeve assembly and prevent corrosion. And if your engine has been running properly and suddenly quits or it won’t readily start up, replace the glow plug.

Once your airplane is built and your engine installed, be sure to use a quality fuel and use the same nitro percentage during break-in that you intend to fly with.

Regardless of the size or brand of glow engine that you install in your airplane, it is very important to break in the engine before you use it to power your model.

“For break-in, use fuel with the same nitro percentage as you plan to fly with. Why? Generally, the more nitromethane a fuel contains, the higher the cylinder-head temperature will be. Higher cylinder-head temperatures mean greater expansion for the upper cylinder and, to some degree, the piston. If you break in an engine with 5% nitro fuel, it will actually be too loose when 15% nitro is used because the cylinder expands faster than the piston as temperatures increase.”—Dave Gierke

CARBURETORS

When breaking in an engine, it is important not to run an ABC engine excessively (slobbering) rich. This is because the engine will run far cooler then designed to at normal operation. The engine’s internal clearances are tighter when cold. Running the engine below designed operating temperature will promote premature wear. It is best to use a tachometer to read the engine’s speed while leaning out the high-end mixture. When you get to a point where further leaning creates no further increase in rpm, stop leaning the needle. Now, turn the needle clockwise to richen the mixture to produce a 200 to 300rpm drop.

“If you don’t have a tachometer, you can also perform the ‘pinch test.’ At full power, start leaning out the fuel mixture and then pinch the fuel line. The engine should momentarily speed up. Keep doing this until the engine stops speeding up when you pinch the fuel line. Now richen the needle setting a few clicks richer, and you are good to go. As a last resort, you can raise the nose of the airplane vertical and see if there is any difference in engine rpm. If the engine rpm lowers (‘sags’) with the nose up, the engine is too lean. Richen the needle a few clicks, and repeat.” —Kevin Siemonsen

PROPELLERS

“To minimize vibration, always balance your propellers and never try to repair or glue a damaged one. Vibration increases wear and tear on the engine’s bearings as well as the rest of your airplane’s parts and radio equipment. Also be sure to select the correct propeller from the recommended range specified by the engine manufacturer. Running a prop that is too big can lead to overheating, while a propeller that’s too small can allow the engine to over-rev, further affecting overall performance. Again, follow the instructions, and experiment with size and pitch values to fine-tune your airplane and engine combined performance. For safety while starting your engine, use an electric starter or a chicken stick.”—John Reid

ELECTRIC

The best way to keep your glow engine happy and running reliably is to use a quality fuel and install fuel filters in both the model between the tank and the engine as well as in the fuel supply line used to fill the tank. A Du-Bro Products filter is shown here.

More than ever, we are today enjoying a true golden age of RC electric flight. The amount of quality motors, batteries, controllers, and connectors seems limitless as are the types and sizes of airplanes you can fly with electric power. Even though there are plenty of ready-togo packages where you get everything needed in one box, some can find it difficult to get started. If you’ve never tried an airplane with clean electric power, here are some basics points that you need to know.

To be successful, you need to look at your model’s entire power system as a whole—one that will work together for maximum power and efficiency for the plane you are flying. And you have to understand how much power is needed to fly your plane safely. Whether you’re flying a lightweight microflier or a large 3D aerobatic plane, its performance is based on the amount of power that it develops relative to its ready-to-fly weight. If you are putting your plane together with a separate airframe and power-system components, then you have to know what will work together.

WATTS PER POUND

If a nitro-burning glow engine had a heart, it would be its glow plug. There are several types available, so start with your engine manufacturer’s recommendation.

This categorization is a loose, flexible way to estimate the amount of power that you’ll need for a specific-size airplane while giving the performance required for safe flight. The rule is really just a guideline to determine how many watts of power are needed per pound of airplane weight and is expressed as W/lb. Here are some commonly accepted numbers (fast fact: 746 watts = 1hp):

• 50 W/lb. or less—very lightweight micro RC and slow fliers
• 50–75 W/lb.—sport powered sailplanes and gliders, basic trainers, lightweight scale planes, vintage RC fliers, and RC Assist-Free Flight designs
• 75–100 W/lb.—basic sport fliers, intermediate aerobatics, scale low-wing designs, and medium-size warbirds
• 100–150 W/lb.—advanced aerobatics, pattern flying, 3D planes, larger warbirds, and jets
• 150–200 W/lb. or more—unlimited 3D aerobatics, warbirds, and large jets

Brushless motors have all but eliminated the use of older, brushed motors. When it comes to setting up your electric airplane, the motor that you use needs to be compatible with the rest of your power system.

CHARGING AND C RATINGS

Compared to the NiMH and NiCd, the lithium polymer (LiPo) battery packs have totally altered our definitions for power and flight duration. Where the older types of batteries offered 1.2 volts per cell, (1V under load), LiPo cells offer a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts per cell, and they provide much larger capacities (C ratings) along with an impressive weight saving. More voltage, more capacity, and lighter wing loadings have really improved our airplanes’ flight performance.

Unlike other types of batteries, LiPo batteries can be stored for one to two months without significantly losing charge. LiPo batteries should not be trickle-charged, and the typical maximum and minimum voltage for LiPo cells should be 4.23 and 3 volts per cell, respectively.

Great care is required when using LiPo battery packs. Overcharging a LiPo battery can cause the pack to burst and vent violently and can cause the pack to catch fire. As for overdischarging, most speed controls allow you to set a low-voltage cutoff or use the default, which varies by manufacturer. Three volts is the absolute minimum anyone should use as allowing LiPo cells to go below this voltage will damage them. As with any high-energy electrical equipment and battery packs, you should always carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper use.

“LiPo batteries must be properly charged with appropriate chargers to extend their life span and optimize their capabilities. Many manufacturers now produce packs that can be charged at very high rates and discharged at extreme rates. It’s common to see charge rates listed as 5C or higher and discharge rates at 45C continuous and even 90C bursts. For the absolute best service from your packs and to increase their longevity, it’s still best to charge at the 1C rate (example: 3.3A for a 3300mAh battery). Discharges are best kept within the continuous discharge rating and bursts only used for emergencies. Proper chargers should provide constant cell monitoring and balance charge capabilities.”—Greg Gimlick

The fuel tanks for electric-powered airplanes are the battery packs. They are available in various voltages and capacities. Knowing their C-ratings is also very important.

For electric-power systems, the speed control that you use needs to match the requirements for your motor and the type of airplane performance you are looking for.

BALANCING BOARDS

“Never charge a LiPo pack without the balancing board plugged in. There is no reason to charge without balancing a pack. This keeps all the cells even, allowing them to work together with less stress on each. A balanced pack will always outlast a pack that has never been balanced. Keep this in mind: Almost every new charger has balancing ports for keeping the packs balanced.”—John Reid

ARMING SWITCHES

An excellent way to make operating your electric airplane safer is to add an arming switch to your power system. It is a simple way to safely install your battery pack without bringing the speed control online until you get to the flightline and are ready to fly. These switches and plug-in connectors are made by a number of manufacturers and are easy to install.

“While working on the workbench, another excellent safety tip is to remove the propeller from the motor. This way, should you accidently switch on your power system or bump the throttle stick while the radio is on, the propeller won’t cause any damage or injury.”—John Reid

BOTTOM LINE

Always use a balancing board when charging LiPo battery packs. There are several types available, so matching the connector to your battery pack shouldn’t be a problem.

As with anything else about our hobby, before you make a major purchase, you first need to know the basics. It is always good to ask friends who have used the power system that you are thinking about and see how they liked it. And when it comes to accessories and hardware, don’t be price-driven; look for the best recommendations and pick the best quality you can use within your budget. Match your engine- or electric-powered system to the airplane that you want to fly, and treat it with care so that it lasts a long time.

The post Pick your power: electric, gas or glow! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

1: MOTOR-BACKPLATE SLIPPAGE

Almost all motor prop adapters are smooth; they don’t have a knurled finish. This means that when you install a prop and try to tighten the nut, the adapter often slips. Small pieces of 220-grit sandpaper CA’d to the backplate surface will prevent this and secure the prop tightly. This easy fix is well worth the bit of time it takes to do.

2: REMOVING COVERING FROM BALSA SHEETING

Removing covering over balsa sheeting can be tricky. If you cut too deeply, you can compromise the wood’s integrity. By placing the blade in the knife handle as shown in the photo, you can easily adjust and control the depth of the cut. To set the blade’s depth, use it on a scrap piece of sheeting and make test cuts before you make the actual cuts on the model.

3: FAST, EFFICIENT, GLOW-PLUG IGNITER CLEANER

Oil residue can prevent glow igniters from working properly. If you carry yours in your pocket, even the lint in there can cause your igniter to malfunction. A good way to clean igniters is with alcohol and an old electric toothbrush. A clean tip on the igniter will allow more current to reach the glow-plug element for more reliable starting.

4: CONTROL-HORN MOUNT

Mounting a control horn on a tapered surface makes it difficult to align the screw holes. To keep the control-horn base square to the hinge line, install a few tapered shims. CA the control horn into place, and match-drill the holes with a drill press so that the horn aligns perfectly with the nut plate on the far side.

5: CUSTOM TRIM TAPE

When it’s time to apply trim tape to your model’s canopy (or anywhere else), and you need a special color, paint the tape with Testors Model Master water-soluble paint. It comes in a rainbow of colors, and you don’t have to buy a lot of it. It comes in 1-ounce bottles.

6: PRESSURE-GAUGE HELPER

When you encounter a leak in an air line or air cylinder in your retract system, there is a handy way to discover where the problem originates. Hook up the retract cylinders and the air-supply tank individually, and then check each component separate from the rest of the retract system; it will be much easier to find the leak.

7: SAFE COMPONENT TIE-DOWN

Mounting a plane’s electronic components takes some planning. You want them to be secure but not so tight that they absorb engine vibrations. Here, everything has been safely tied down in a neat and orderly fashion. To do this, place the component on a piece of foam, and then tie it in place with a plastic strap. Add a piece of fuel line across the top to help absorb the vibes.

8: MAGNIFICENT TRAILER

A friend of mine built this unusual trailer to haul his airplanes to the field. He found the rear end of a pickup truck at a junkyard and modified it. The great thing about this trailer is that when he pulls out the bed, all of his airplanes are within easy reach! Somehow, though, the trailer doesn’t seem to go with that expensive Hummer pulling it.

9: EXTRA WEIGHT

Often, you have to add extra weight to the nose or to the tail of an airplane to achieve the proper center of gravity (CG), and lead seems to be the material of choice for this task. Shower-base liners are made out of lead, and you can cut them into small pieces easily with scissors and then bolt them on. The lead is approximately 1/16 inch thick, and you can cut it to fit almost anywhere. Used and new shower-base liners can be purchased from plumbing-supply houses.

10: MARKING HINGE LOCATIONS

When it’s time to mark the locations of hinges, you could do it with a ruler and a pen, but there’s an easier way, and you won’t have to put a single mark on the plane! Lay a strip of masking tape on the leading edge of the control surface and on the trailing edge of the wing. Mark the hinge locations on the tape. When you’ve finished, remove the tape and apply it to the other control surface. That’s it!

BY JERRY SMITH

The post A new way of using a hobby knife & other tips! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Read the article from the July 2017 article of Electric Flight, click here.

The post Tower Hobbies P-51D Mustang Mk II Rx-R appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Features:

• Receiver-ready, with a 1000kV brushless motor, 30A ESC and 4 servos all pre-installed.
• Loaded with iconic Mustang details, like molded exhaust stacks, panel lines, machine guns, instrument panel and a painted and installed pilot bust.
• Assembly is easy and doesn’t require glue, so you can be out flying sorties in no time.
• Fly without fear – this Mustang is made of lightweight, durable AeroCell foam that comes back from mishaps without major repairs.
• The fixed landing gear can be easily removed for hand launches and belly landings.
• Ground handling is solid and more controlled with the steerable tail wheel.
• Accessing onboard gear and swapping out batteries is a breeze – the magnetic hatch is easy to remove, yet holds on tight.
• Give your Mustang even more scale realism with optional retracts – they’re inexpensive and easy to install.
• Working pre-hinged flaps are another cool option for ramping up the looks AND adding a new dimension to your flying*. *CA+ Medium Glue required – (LXPT39)
• Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang MKII EP Berlin Express Warbird Rx-R – 1000kV motor. You’ll enjoy smooth, brushless power with the 1000kV motor – and it’s already installed.
• Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang MKII EP Berlin Express Warbird Rx-R – magnetic hatch. The magnetic hatch protects onboard gear, and it’s easy to remove for swapping out batteries.
• Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang MKII EP Berlin Express Warbird Rx-R – landing gear. Simply remove the included landing gear and you’re ready for hand launches and belly landings.
• Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang MKII EP Berlin Express Warbird Rx-R – optional servos. By connecting optional servos (LXAUTH) to the pre-hinged flaps you can enjoy even more realistic flight characteristics, such as reducing speed for landing.
• Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang MKII EP Berlin Express Warbird Rx-R – Optional retracts
• Optional retracts (LXETTP) and Y-Harness (LXGLYW) are other terrific scale touches, and they’re inexpensive and easy to install.

INCLUDES:

Preassembled Wing, Fuselage and Tail Sections, Fixed Landing Gear, Wheels, Motor, ESC, Propeller, Spinner, Servos and Instruction Manual – Retracts are not included and can be purchased seperately.

REQUIREMENTS:

• Transmitter and Receiver: At least 4-ch, 6-ch required for optional retracts & flaps
• LiPo Battery: 3S at least 1800mAh
• Battery Charger: To match selected battery
• Building and field equipment

SPECIFICATIONS:

Construction: AeroCell foam, repairs easily with CA glue
Wing: One-piece
Aileron Control: Dual Servo
Flaps: Optional, hardware included to make flaps operational (two
servos and Y-harness required, see COMMENTS below)
Brushless Motor: 30-35-1000 1000Kv
Electronic Speed Control: 30A
Landing Gear: Fixed, can be easily removed for hand launches and
belly landings, steerable tail wheel, optional prehinged flaps and
retracts
Wheels: Foam, two 2″ (51mm) main, 0.83″ (21mm) diameter tailwheel
Spinner: Plastic, red and yellow in color, 2.5″ (63.5mm) diameter
Servos: Four Tower Hobbies mini size, 14 oz-in (1.0 kg-cm) torque
Propeller: 10x7E composite construction, black in color
Hatch: AeroCell foam, attaches with magnets
Canopy: Clear, painted pilot figure
Length: 34″ (864mm)
Wingspan: 40″ (1016mm)
Wing Area: 282 sq in (18.2 sq dm)
Weight: 30 – 34oz (850 – 964g)
Wing Loading: 15.3 – 17.2 oz/sq ft (46.7 – 52.5 g/sq dm)
Center of Gravity (CG): 3″ (76mm) behind the leading edge of the
wing measured at the fuselage
Control Throws- Low Rate High Rate
Elevator, Up & Down: 1/8″ (3mm) 6° 1/4″ (6mm) 12°
Rudder, Right to Left: 1/2″ (13mm) 14° 11/16″ (17mm) 18°
Ailerons, Up & Down: 3/8″ (10mm) 18° 1/2″ (13mm) 23°
Optional Flaps, Down: 1″ (25mm) 24°

Warranty:

Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.

#TOWA2018 – $119.99

Visit TowerHobbies.com
See more posts about Tower Hobbies

The post Tower Hobbies P-51B Mustang Berlin Express Rx-R 40″ appeared first on Model Airplane News.

From Tower Hobbies:

What better way to win air races than with a plane patterned after the popular P-51 Mustang? Its speed and agility made it a dominant dogfighter during its combat career, and now you can take the checkered flag with a quality-built replica of an American icon!

Tower Hobbies’ P-51 Mustang Red Racer is Receiver-Ready, so the motor, ESC and servos are pre-installed. All you have to supply is your radio system and battery. It’s made of AeroCell foam, so it repairs easily with CA adhesive. Plus, it has lots of scale touches, along with a distinctive trim scheme featuring red, white, black and gray on top and a cool checkerboard design underneath.

Your P-51 Mustang MKII Red Racer will definitely be the center of attention at the flying field. And in the heat of competition, its performance will put you out in front.

Features:

• Receiver-ready, with a 1000kV brushless motor, 30A ESC and 4 servos all pre-installed.
• Loaded with iconic Mustang details, like molded exhaust stacks, panel lines, instrument panel and a painted and installed pilot bust.
• Assembly is easy and doesn’t require glue, so you can be out breaking speed records in no time.
• Fly without fear – this Mustang is made of lightweight, durable AeroCell foam that comes back from mishaps without major repairs.
• The fixed landing gear can be easily removed for hand launches and belly landings.
• Ground handling is solid and more controlled with the steerable tail wheel.
• Accessing onboard gear and swapping out batteries is a breeze – the magnetic hatch is easy to remove, yet holds on tight.
• Give your Mustang even more scale realism with optional retracts – they’re inexpensive and easy to install.
• Working pre-hinged flaps are another cool option for ramping up the looks AND adding a new dimension to your flying*. *CA+ Medium Glue required – (LXPT39)
• Tower Hobbies® P-51 Mustang MKII EP Red Racer Rx-R – 1000kV brushless motor. The 1000kV brushless motor is already installed and ready to deliver smooth electric power.
• Tower Hobbies® P-51 Mustang MKII EP Red Racer Rx-R – magnetic hatch
  The magnetic hatch protects onboard gear, and it’s easy to remove for swapping out batteries.
• Tower Hobbies® P-51 Mustang MKII EP Red Racer Rx-R – landing gear
• Simply remove the included landing gear and you’re ready for hand launches and belly landings.
• Tower Hobbies® P-51 Mustang MKII EP Red Racer Rx-R – optional servos
• By connecting optional servos (LXAUTH) to the pre-hinged flaps you can enjoy even more realistic flight characteristics, such as reducing speed for landing.
• Tower Hobbies® P-51 Mustang MKII EP Red Racer Rx-R – Optional retracts
• Optional retracts (LXETTP) and Y-Harness (LXGLYW) are other terrific scale touches, and they’re inexpensive and easy to install.

Includes:

Preassembled Wing, Fuselage and Tail Sections, Fixed Landing Gear, Wheels, Motor, ESC, Propeller, Spinner, Servos and Instruction Manual – Retracts are not included and can be purchased seperately.

Requirements:

• Transmitter and Receiver: At least 4-ch, 6-ch required for optional retracts & flaps
• LiPo Battery: 3S at least 1800mAh
• Battery Charger: To match selected battery
• Building and field equipment

Specs:

Construction: AeroCell foam, repairs easily with CA glue
Wing: One-piece
Aileron Control: Dual Servo
Flaps: Optional, hardware included to make flaps operational (two servos and Y-harness required, see COMMENTS below)
Brushless Motor: 30-35-1000 1000Kv
Electronic Speed Control: 30A
Landing Gear: Fixed, can be easily removed for hand launches and belly landings, steerable tail wheel, optional prehinged flaps and retracts
Wheels: Foam, two 2″ (51mm) main, 0.83″ (21mm) diameter tailwheel
Spinner: Plastic, red in color, 2.5″ (63.5mm) diameter
Servos: Four Tower Hobbies mini size, 14 oz-in (1.0 kg-cm) torque
Propeller: 10x7E composite construction, black in color
Hatch: AeroCell foam, attaches with magnets
Canopy: Clear, painted pilot figure
Length: 34″ (864mm)
Wingspan: 40″ (1016mm)
Wing Area: 282 sq in (18.2 sq dm)
Weight: 30 – 34oz (850 – 964g)
Wing Loading: 15.3 – 17.2 oz/sq ft (46.7 – 52.5 g/sq dm)
Center of Gravity (CG): 3″ (76mm) behind the leading edge of the wing measured at the fuselage
Control Throws- Low Rate High Rate
Elevator, Up & Down: 1/8″ (3mm) 6° 1/4″ (6mm) 12°
Rudder, Right to Left: 1/2″ (13mm) 14° 11/16″ (17mm) 18°
Ailerons, Up & Down: 3/8″ (10mm) 18° 1/2″ (13mm) 23°
Optional Flaps, Down: 1″ (25mm) 24°

Warranty:

Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.

#TOWA2016 – $119.99
Visit TowerHobbies.com
See more posts about Tower Hobbies

The post Tower Hobbies P-51D Mustang MkII Racer Red Rx-R [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News.

From Tower Hobbies:
Get set to soar in a piece of classic Americana—the Miss America P-51! Fresh from the skies over Europe and back to delight thousands at airshows across the nation. (retracts and flaps optional)
Visit TowerHobbies.com
See more posts about Tower Hobbies

The post Tower P-51 Miss America [VIDEO] appeared first on Model Airplane News.