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A good landing starts out with a good landing traffic pattern. Start your landing pattern by entering the crosswind leg and then turn into the downwind leg. Turn into the base leg, start your descent and then set up your final approach. All your turns should be 90 degrees.

In a crosswind landing, you should set up a crab heading angle that produces a straight tracking path. The stronger the crosswind, the larger the crab angle needs to be.

A smooth and consistant approach angle is also very important. Use throttle to control the descent rate and keep the wings level. Aim for an imaginary spot just above the runway, and cross the end of the runway at an altitude of about 10 to 15 feet.

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Begin by flying your plane parallel to the runway about 100 yards away from yourself. When you reach the end of the aerobatic box (1,800 feet wide maximum), pull the plane vertical. If your plane does not head straight up, you didn’t have your wings level. Typically, most fliers hold their inboard wing too low during what looks to them like straight and level flight; when the plane is pulled into a vertical climb, it will start to come in toward the pilot. Continue doing this at various altitudes until you can achieve a vertical pullout. As the plane continues upward, other forces such as prop torque will affect your plane, but you need only concentrate on the initial pull up for this exercise. If you find that you have to apply rudder immediately after you “pull” up-elevator, then you are not flying level. High-wing, mid-wing and low-wing planes will all look different in flight with respect to the ground. Your paint scheme can also “throw off” your perception of your plane’s attitude. Learn what wings-level looks like by practicing it over and over.

Now let’s take the wings-level exercise one step farther: inverted. Yep, throw out your previous sight picture and start again. In an aerobatic sequence, straight and level flight is not limited to upright flight only. In fact, you may spend as much as 30 percent of your flight time inverted while in between maneuvers. You also need to know what inverted wings-level flight looks like. Push down-elevator to enter into a hammerhead at each end of the box, and notice which way the plane immediately leans. Fix the lean angle on the next try with your ailerons immediately before adding the elevator push from straight and level flight. Once the push begins, only rudder should be used. The same thing goes for upright flight. Use the ailerons before the pull, and then use the rudder to correct during and after the pull into the vertical.

Wind correction is another factor that will influence straight and level flight and your vertical lines. (Note: “wind correction” means that you must lean the plane’s heading slightly into the wind to keep the plane’s flight path parallel to the runway and perpendicular to the ground during a vertical climb.) If the plane is crabbed during a vertical entry, it will immediately lean toward the direction of crab. You may need to take some of the crab out of the plane with rudder immediately before the pull. (I emphasized the word “some” to signify that there is no hard-and-fast rule concerning how much to remove.) A certain amount of crab-angle wind correction should be maintained to keep it parallel to the runway. Each plane will act differently depending on its weight, the length of its tail moment and the amount of crosswind velocity. The only way to find how much crab angle you’ll need to remove is by practicing. It may seem simple, but I can’t over-emphasize how important it is to master straight and level flight—for aspiring aerobatic pilots and seasoned veterans, as well. Think of it as the glue that holds your sequence of maneuvers together.

BY DAN WOLANSKI

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Learning to fly is always easier and more fun with the aid of an experienced instructor. He will help you avoid those first few beginner mistakes and will help your airplane live a lot longer.

The Sportsman S+ RTF with SAFE Technology from Hobby Zone is one of the new generation trainer/sport fliers that comes with onboard stabilization. It makes learning to fly very easy.

For the first-time RC modeler, today is a great time for getting started in the hobby. The newest generation of easy-to-assemble, almost-ready-to-fly planes come in a wide variety of types and sizes. From electric-powered park fliers and microscale designs to your basic engine-powered, nitro-burning sport and trainer planes, the amount of work on the bench is minimal. Compared to the good old days, our newest RC planes aren’t very labor-intensive to assemble. Many even come out of the box completely ready to fly without any assembly required. “Plug and play” is a big part the hobby today, and it very easy to be successful. Really, the hardest part is deciding which model plane and radio system you want. Whether it has an electric power system or has an engine bolted to the firewall, once you decide on the airplane you like, you’ll need a flight plan to earn your RC wings. Let’s take a look at some of the basic techniques that you’ll need to know to be a successful RC pilot.

GETTING STARTED

If you are the social type who enjoys talking about RC planes as much as learning how to fly them, joining a local club is the way to go. Meeting monthly affords you the opportunity to get together with other like-minded RC addicts; it’s a lot like group therapy for the aviation minded. Clubs usually have a permanent flying field, and membership costs are relatively inexpensive compared to all the benefits you receive. Being a club member, you’ll quickly find out where local instructors hang out. The hobby is a great way to make new friends and to find useful hobby resources. Reading Model Airplane News is also a great way to start.

RADIO GEAR

One of the first tricks to learn deals with control reversal. When the airplane is headed toward you instead of flying away, left and right turns feel reversed. To level your wings, simply move the control stick toward the lower wingtip. This will keep you flying straight and level.

For the beginner, it’s best to start with a RTF (ready-to-fly) airplane that comes in a complete package, which includes everything you’ll need to fly your plane, including the radio. This way, there are no decisions to make and you know everything will work the way it is suppose to. For the modeler who is looking to stay in the hobby for the long haul, the purchase of a radio system is a good investment.

A standard full-house aileron-equipped plane requires four channels to operate. The basic controls are the throttle, rudder, elevator, and the ailerons. Once past the basics, you’ll want to think about adding more functions, such as flaps and possibly retractable landing gear, so a 6-channel radio system gives you flexibility for future development. Programmable computer radios are very popular because of the amount of adjustments and control mixing that you can do with the various channels. The basic features include dual rates and exponential, servo reversing, servo-travel adjustment, and basic mixing. Computer radios today are very affordable, so consider them a good investment for your future needs. Also, most radios systems come without servos; when you buy your radio, purchase separately the size, number, and type of servo that you’ll need for your particular model.

GROUND SCHOOL

Yes, a lot can be learned with the use of a good flight-simulator program, but nothing speeds your progress more than some quality time one-on-one with an instructor. Having someone help you avoid those first few common mistakes will not only speed your flight training but also help prevent you from having to buy two (or possibly three) replacement trainer planes before you solo.

During those first few flights, a training plan can be developed, with each of your flights having a specific goal. Building on what you’ve learned from previous flights allows you to move on after you master the basics. Learn to taxi around first, then after you and your instructor are comfortable with you controlling your plane on the ground, you can move on to the takeoff, straight and level flight, turning left and right, and flying at slow airspeeds. While on the ground, you’ll learn how to steer with the rudder and how to work the throttle smoothly. After you get the hang of it, you can start flying at low altitudes so that you can get used to flying in the traffic pattern. Then, you’ll begin working on your first few landing approaches.

Throughout the process, remember that this is all about having fun! If you begin to feel stress, tell your instructor and let him take over. You have to take a lot of little steps before you can run. A good tip is to always be aware of the wind direction and how it affects your airplane.

Buddy System

Modern buddy-box training systems have cut the cable between the two transmitters and are now wireless.

By far, the best way to learn how to fly is with a system called a buddy box. A buddy box uses a cable connected between the instructor’s transmitter and that of the student, but newer radios do the same thing wirelessly. The buddy box allows the instructor to take control of your airplane simply by releasing a spring-loaded switch. Should you get into trouble, your instructor can quickly correct the plane and give control back to you. Available from many radio manufacturers, buddy-box training systems are often available from RC airplane clubs.

Until you are signed off for solo RC flight, the instructor will control the model during takeoff and then will fly it up to a safe altitude before transferring flight control to your radio. Compared to using a single radio (where an instructor has to take the radio from the student’s hands to regain control), the buddy-box system is much easier and safer.

This is a typical RC airplane training traffic pattern. Always take off and land into the wind, and use throttle to control your climb and descent rates.

It is always best to train when the wind is calm or at least straight down the runway. This way, the plane will go where you point it.

To fly a straight path when there is a crosswind, you need to crab the airplane (using rudder) so that it faces slightly into the wind. The stronger the wind, the more you have to angle the the plane’s nose into the wind. Practicing this will quickly increase your piloting skills. Remember to keep the wings level.

FIRST FLIGHT

As you gain experience and start to anticipate your model’s needed corrections, the instructor will give you more and more stick time until you’re ready to solo. There’s nothing more exciting that to hear your instructor say, “Go ahead. Take ‘er off this time!”

Takeoffs are actually quite easy. Most trainers and beginner sport planes are designed to be stable, and when you fully advance the throttle, they will want to climb almost by themselves. Concentrate on maintaining a straight path, and apply throttle slowly. If the plane veers off course, correct with a touch of rudder (a little right is usually needed to keep going straight down the runway). As the model gets light on the wheels, pull back a little on the elevator stick; the model’s nose will come up, and the plane will become airborne. Keep the wings level with small aileron inputs, and let the model climb out at a shallow angle. Don’t let the model jump off the ground at a steep angle. Don’t panic—just ease off the elevator stick, and if necessary, apply a little down (push the stick forward slightly) to keep the model at a steady climb angle.

Your instructor will teach you to fly the traffic pattern, and as you improve, he will have you fly at low altitudes until he’s comfortable with your command of the plane. Without you actually knowing what’s going to happen, a good instructor will talk you through the landing pattern and get you lined up for your first attempts. He will remind you to control the airspeed with your elevator (model nose high or low) and adjust your descent rate with the throttle. Once you nail that very first landing, it will be only a matter of time before you solo and can fly unassisted.

BOTTOM LINE
Like anything else, to get really good at flying, you’ll need to practice and stay with it. It is an investment of time and effort. In the end, however, the satisfaction you’ll feel when you take off and land by yourself will be well worth the effort. You’ll be a properly trained RC pilot with the entire hobby to enjoy. Whether you want to fly warbirds, racers, or aerobatic airplanes, it all requires training and mastering the skills needed to be successful.

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If you’ve ever watched a proficient pilot fly (you can often tell by their mirror image perfect landings), you may have noticed how their general flying appears casually routine. In other words, they make it look easy. That’s because their control of the airplane has become mostly automatic. For example, instead of reacting to the airplane every time they perform a turn, proficient pilots simply repeat the same turn control inputs and the airplane predictably and consistently follows along. By focusing on controlling the airplane and repeating the same control inputs, you too can experience the same predictable results as pro fliers, and therefore experience greater proficiency in wind, easier transitions into new and different aircraft types, and more consistent landing setups.

Procedure (Aileron) Turns

The procedure that pro pilots use to turn most aileron equipped airplanes starts by “setting the bank” with a smooth, yet brief, aileron input. Note that the aileron input is neutralized to avoid needless adjustments or entering a downward spiral and then up-elevator is applied to pull the nose into a turn and to keep the turn level. The turn is then kept level mainly by adjusting the elevator versus “fiddling” with the ailerons as so many pilots mistakenly do.

The size of the aileron input determines the degree of bank and therefore the size of the turn, as well as how much elevator will be needed to keep the turn level. For example, a smaller aileron input produces a shallower bank and therefore a wider turn, whereas a larger aileron input produces a steeper bank and a tighter turn. The initial objective of every proficient pilot is to find the aileron input that consistently produces the degree of bank that we are comfortable with, and then determine the correct amount of elevator to pull each time to keep the turn level. You can anticipate that during a mild bank, most of the wing’s lift is still opposing the pull of gravity, and thus very little up-elevator will be needed to keep the turn level. During a steeper bank, there’s less upward component of lift to oppose gravity, thus more up-elevator is required to keep the turn level.

A brief aileron input establishes the bank angle. Pulling up-elevator begins the turn and keeps the turn level. The key to avoiding tight or spiraling turns is to not hold in aileron during the turn!

Consistent Turns

The neutral stick position provides a distinct point from which to gauge the size of each of our control inputs, therefore making correct amounts easier to repeat and incorrect amounts easier to modify correctly. For example, if your turns are too tight, rather than “fiddling” with the ailerons throughout your turns, simply reduce the size of your initial aileron input from neutral to produce a shallower bank and wider turns. Or, if you initially pull too much elevator and effect a climbing turn, repeat the same aileron input next time, but pull less elevator from neutral and the turn will be more level.

Performing a procedure turn can be summed up by the motto “Trust, then adjust.” That is, proactively initiate your turns trusting your inputs, then adjust (fine-tune) the amount of elevator you’re holding depending on what you see to keep the turn level. If you see the plane start to lose altitude during the turn, pull more elevator. If the plane starts to climb, lessen the amount of elevator that you’re holding in throughout the remainder of the turn. Keep in mind that as a rule, it is easier to add more input than it is to recover after over-controlling. Therefore, the best procedure is to target a small amount of elevator at the start of a turn, and then fine-tune the elevator, if necessary, to maintain a perfectly level turn.

A larger aileron input produces a steeper bank, a tighter turn, and requires more up-elevator to keep the turn level.

Restarting & Tightening Turns

In the event that a turn needs to be tightened or restarted, the correct procedure is to smoothly apply an individual small bump of aileron (in-out) in the direction of the turn to steepen the bank angle while continuing to hold in the elevator. Remember, to avoid over-controlling, the aileron bump needs to be briefly applied in-and-out, not held in!

If you pull to much elevator at the start of your first turn, resulting in a climbing turn, next time repeat the same aileron input and bank but pull less up-elevator from neutral to effect a more level turn.

Procedure Turn Correction

At the point that you want to exit the turn, neutralize the elevator and smoothly apply opposite aileron to level the wings. Note that the key to applying the aileron in the proper direction is reminding yourself which way you’re turning and anticipating opposite aileron before it’s time to correct. The temptation to look at the wings to determine which way to apply the aileron produces hesitation and confusion whenever the position of the wings is not clear. Ultimately, correctly applying the aileron will hinge on how well you start and maintain level turns, because the less demanding the turn is in general, the easier it will be to remember which way to apply the aileron to level the wings. In fact, as long as the turn was kept level, you can actually get away with correcting the wrong direction, catch the mistake, and level the wings correctly with only minimal altitude loss. On the other hand, it can spell doom for an airplane if the pilot corrects the wrong way during a diving turn! Thus, prioritizing elevator adjustments to keep each turn level should be the top priority for most pilots.

“Trust, then adjust.” Focus on your inputs when initiating the turn, then adjust the amount of elevator you’re holding in to keep the turn level.

Ailerons bank the wings. Pulling up-elevator turns the airplane. To exit the turn, neutralize the elevator and apply opposite aileron to level the wings.

Briefly bump the aileron to restart or tighten a turn.

Rudder Turns

A rudder turn is performed using the rudder to yaw the nose of the airplane in the direction that you want to turn, and while space does not permit going into all the details, most airplanes will also inherently bank in the direction that the rudder is applied.

There are basically two different techniques required to turn an airplane without ailerons using the rudder. Planes that exhibit a lot of upright stability, such as a high wing powered glider, typically resist banking and therefore require you to continue holding in rudder to keep turning. These aircraft typically require a larger rudder input to get the turn started, but once started, the rudder has to be reduced to keep the turn from becoming too tight. Note: The inherent skid and subsequent speed loss when applying rudder will most likely require you to combine some up elevator with the rudder at the start of the turn to keep it from dropping.

Other rudder planes require a technique similar to an aileron turn, where the rudder is applied only long enough to bank the wings, and then it is neutralized to avoid over-banking and entering a downward spiral. Similar to an aileron turn, the degree of bank and the size of the turn are dictated by the size of the rudder control input. Keep in mind that rudder banks are less precise than aileron banks and will tend to lag behind your inputs if applied too quickly. Thus, to achieve results that more closely match your intentions, you must apply all your rudder inputs very smoothly to give the plane a chance to keep up with your inputs.

Once the turn is started, you’ll need to adjust the elevator to keep the turn level, then level the wings with opposite rudder to exit the turn. Returning the wings to level usually takes longer with rudder than it does with aileron, thus you’ll have to start leveling the wings prior to the point that you want the turn to stop, and then continue holding in the rudder until the wings are level. Note that prolonged rudder defections and the resulting skids tend to scrub off airspeed, thus you will most likely need to hold in a little up-elevator while leveling the wings to keep the plane from dropping.

Smoothly apply rudder to bank the wings, then neutralize the rudder to avoid over-banking and entering a downward spiral. Maintain up-elevator to keep the turn level throughout.

Glider rudder turn inputs.

Prolonged rudder deflections tend to scrub off airspeed. Therefore, you will likely have to hold in some up-elevator while leveling the wings to keep the plane from dropping.

Conclusion

Proficient pilots don’t endeavor to get better at making corrections. Proficient pilots apply control inputs that reduce the need for corrections altogether. The key, therefore, is for you to pay attention to making consistent control inputs, and then if you don’t like the result, look to proactively change your inputs/commands rather than react to deviations. Consider that when your turn inputs are made correctly, the need for additional corrections may not even exist, and that is when you will be free to think ahead of the airplane just like a pro. Good luck and happy flying.

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Remember to always launch your model while facing straight into the wind. Don’t throw your model downwind (with wind at your back), this will cause the model to stall, lose lift possibly striking the ground.

Step 1: Turn on your transmitter and receiver and add a few clicks of up-elevator trim.

Step 2: Grasp the model in your strong hand, and hold the transmitter with the other so you can advance the throttle with your thumb as soon as the model is in the air.

Step 3: Take a step or two forward, and toss the model forward and slightly upward with its wings and nose up or level.

Step 4: As soon as the model is clear of your launch hand, smoothly bring your hand down, and grasp the control stick.

Step 5: Never take your eyes off the model. If the model starts to climb excessively, add a touch of down-elevator. If it banks sharply and begins to veer off course, use some rudder and aileron input to keep it on a straight climb with wings level. Don’t begin a turn until your model is at a safe altitude of 50 to 75 feet.

For some sport or scale designs, because of landing gear placement or scale accessories, the single-handed “overhand” pitch is difficult. You either have to grasp the plane’s fuselage behind the wing (which is often too far aft of the balance point), or you can hold the plane from above the wing and launch it underhand in a nose-high altitude at a 20-degree angle.

Holding the fuselage too far aft usually causes the model to pivot nose down during the launch. A far better and safer way is to have a friend hold the plane with two hands (one in front of the wing and one aft), so it can be launched sidewinder style, not exactly overhead.

With micro RC planes, you don’t even have to move or step forward. Just toss the model level with the ground and add power after it leaves your hand.

When it comes to smaller, electric powered ducted-fan jet models, a safe and easy way to launch is using a bungee assist. With a buddy taking care of the model release, you will have both your hands on the radio and you won’t be distracted and can deal with the controls to keep the model flying straight and true until you get up on step and have enough airspeed for a safe climb out.

You need to be especially aware when launching pusher-type model airplanes. With the prop in the tail, there is increase changes that the propeller can hit your launch hand. Always apply power to the motor after the pusher plane is safely free of your launch hand.

Another technique is to hold the model from above with you hand just forward of the balance point. You can then use an upward underhand motion to launch the plane.

Learning to hand launch RC planes will serve you very well and taking some basic precautions will allow you to do it safely! Have fun!

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The tricky part about landing is the fact that you will be flying so close to stall. Unlike full-scale pilots, we do not have an airspeed indicator and the connection to the plane that allows us to feel the stall. However, to me, landing a model aircraft is still very much a “by feel” thing. We just feel the stall in a different sense. The way we feel it is in our thumb that is on the stick that controls the elevator. As our model flies slower, the wing will need a higher angle of attack to maintain altitude. Therefore, while you are setting up for landing, if you suddenly have a need to add more and more elevator to maintain your altitude, it is time to add throttle to avoid the impending stall.

Now, let’s talk about the hardest concept to grasp. When flying a model airplane, especially during landing, the concept is this: elevator controls speed, while throttle controls rate of descent/ascent. Most people believe the opposite to be true. This is painfully obvious when you are flying close to the ground and you run out of up-elevator and your plane comes crashing to the ground. The biggest mistake people make is using elevator alone to try to maintain their descent to landing. Instead you want to use throttle to slow your descent and avoid contact with the ground and elevator to slow the plane down, as it gets closer to touchdown.

With a tricycle gear you can afford to bring the nose a little higher without worrying about losing control of the model once on the ground. We will try to cover this in a future article.

MAKING LIFE EASIER
Landing at different fields can add to the complexity of landing a “difficult” model. When you are landing a model that you need to focus on flying, you will want to lighten the load wherever you can. Here are a few things that I use to make things easier on my brain. The first things that I like to utilize are landmarks. When I first arrive at a new field I will take a few minutes to scan the area and look for visual landmarks. Some of my favorites are peaks of hills or mountains in the background, power poles, trees, or other things that stand out to the eye. Next is knowing the stall characteristics of the model that I am flying. Anytime I fly a new model I like to take her up to altitude once I know everything is working as it should and pull the throttle back. I then apply more and more elevator until I reach stall and see what the plane’s response is. This will remove any surprises when I am on final and altitude is at a premium. These two pointers can help save a number of models if you take the time to utilize them anytime you are at a new field or flying a new model.

DIFFICULT-TO-LAND MODELS

Although it’s not a warbird, you can use the steps in this article to help increase your success rate when landing aerobatic biplanes like the Checkmate pictured here.

Notice the nose level attitude while landing this warbird. The increased airspeed helps to maintain rudder authority on touchdown.

Of the different configurations of models, the tail-dragger plane is definitely more difficult to land well. Of course, we have to count out the “floaty” 3D models and aerobatic planes such as the Extras and Edges that are so popular.

In general, our models are not difficult to land. Even most of our “heavy-metal” warbird models are so lightly wing loaded that they really don’t qualify as a “difficult” to land aircraft. However, even though they don’t have high wing loading, the fact that many of them are tail draggers makes this the “trickiest” class to land so we will focus here.

So, what qualifies as a good landing with a tail-dragging warbird? To me, it is a nice, 2-point touchdown with no bounces and a controlled rollout. The most common mistake we make, as modelers, is not carrying enough speed when landing our warbirds. Just because the wing will fly down to a walking pace does not mean that is the speed we should land these models. Landing too slow will cause the bounces and uncontrolled rollout previously mentioned.

I will first address airspeed. I like to land my models about 5 to 10mph above stall speed. This keeps enough airflow traveling over the vertical fin and rudder to control yaw on touchdown as well as over the horizontal stab and elevator to keep enough pitch authority to minimize bouncing.

The next point of conversation is the attitude of the model. Unlike the 3D aerobatic planes we want to come in with the nose fairly level. Try to avoid coming in nose high like a jet fighter. This just leads to trouble.

The third bullet point would be the flare. Since we have ample airspeed to keep the plane flying the flare is going to be more of a leveling out. I like to flare at about 6 inches above the runway. Once I level the plane off at this altitude, I will pull the throttle back to idle and allow the plane to slow. As the wheels get to the point of contact with the tarmac I will slowly release the back pressure on the elevator lessening the tendency of the tail to drop which creates a positive angle of attack of the wings, which will ultimately lead to the model taking to the skies again unintentionally.

Once the main wheels are solidly on the ground, I focus on my rudder control and be sure to keep the model tracking as close to the centerline as possible.

Finally, once my plane’s air speed is below flight speed, I will slowly add the up-elevator back in to firmly plant the tailwheel on the ground to avoid the undesirable nose over that we have all witnessed at the field.

FINAL WORD

If you take the tips above and focus on improving your skills one at a time, you definitely will see an improvement in your landing skills. All of the above points have proper timing. Additionally, every model you fly will require different timing for each of the points. Be patient and work on each step one at a time with every model you fly. Eventually, everything above will become second nature and you will not hesitate to fly any new model no matter how “scary” it is supposed to be on landing. Now get out there and shoot some landings!   By Jason Benson

The post RC Airplane Flight Tech: Prepare for landing! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

MAN Contributor Aaron Ham tweaks his engine before another inverted flight demo flight.

One of the most important tricks is to figure out how much forward stick pressure your particular aircraft requires to maintain forward level flight. Check it out!

From takeoff to landing, the Aeroworks Ultimate biplane has lots of great features and excellent performance. Aaron notes, “The AeroWorks Ultimate 20-300 is a performer. The power-to-weight ratio with the DLE 35RA out front is phenomenal. As designed, this airplane is an awesome aerobat. I love scale aerobatics and try to fly the airplane as if it’s the real thing. I enjoy trying to fool the unaware observer and mesmerize them with what could be a full-scale aerobatic sequence in front of a crowd gathered at an airshow. Without hesitation, I will tell you that the Ultimate makes me look like a better pilot than I am.”

Get the full Flight Report in the January issue of Model Airplane News.

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