1 Charged Battery ID
If you have a bunch of battery packs you use over and over, knowing which ones are charged and which are not can get confusing. An easy way to identify packs is to place a small ID sticker on the packs after you charge them. Once you’ve used the pack for a flight, peel the sticker off so you’ll know it’s in need of a recharge.

2 Propeller Safety Tips
To prevent accidents, full-size aircraft are equipped with propellers that have brightly colored tips. Do the same with your model airplane propellers. Mask off the tips and spray on some bright yellow or white to make the prop tips more visible while it’s spinning. The finger you save might be your own!
 
3 Small Parts Sticker
When building (or repairing) a model, it is sometimes hard to place a wooden part properly inside a narrow fuselage. An easy way to do this is to use a sharp awl as a “part sticker.” Now, simply add glue to the part, stick it with the “part sticker” and guide it into position.

4 Emergency Screwdriver
It never fails that whenever you need a specific tool for the job, you’ll find that tool anywhere but where you need it. If you find yourself in need of a common, straight-blade screwdriver, you can always take a modeling blade and place it backwards in its handle. The exposed part of the blade can now be used to tighten that screw.

5 Throw-away Epoxy Mixing Pad
While mixing epoxy, use a pad of Post-It notes for the mixing surface. Then after applying the adhesive to the model, simply throw the used note away and you’re ready to mix some more adhesive. No clean up required.

6 Easy Control Surface Alignment

When you install and adjust your pushrods, it is better and easier to do if you lock your control surfaces in their neutral positions. Use a pair of coffee mixing sticks and a couple of clamping clothespins to keep the surfaces from moving.

7 Easy Clevis Keepers
If a clevis were to pop off one of your model’s control horns, you could lose control and crash. A simple and cheap way to prevent this from happening is to add a clevis keeper. Simply slice a thin section from some model fuel tubing and slip it over the clevis. It will act like an O-ring and keep the clevis securely in place without binding.

8 Handy Clamp
There are a hundred tasks in modeling during which you simply need a third hand. Soldering connectors to wire leads is a good example. In a pinch, you can use a pair of pliers with its handles wrapped with a rubber band. The pliers are heavy enough to act as a steady base and the rubber band provides enough clamping force to hold delicate items without damaging them.

9 Simple Building Board
You don’t need a complete building bench or table to build model airplanes; just use a straight piece of pine board. But to make it easier to insert pins to hold the wood parts in place while the glue dries, get some cheap Peel-n-Stick cork sheeting from a hardware store or a convenience shop and stick them to the building board. Place your plans on top and protect it with some clear kitchen wrap or wax paper. Should the cork get damaged or you get some glue on it, simply peel the cork away and replace it with a new piece.

10 Sheet Separator
If you build from plans or kits, you have to cover your model. Often, it is very difficult to separate the covering film from its backing sheet so you can iron it into place. The easiest way to do this is to apply strips of masking tape to each side and use them as pull tabs to separate the two thin layers of plastic.

The post 10 Field & Bench Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Simple Crush Plate

Purchase Lucite at the hardware store and pick up a 1 1/4-inch hole cutter.  Use the hold cutter to cut out some Lucite 1 1/4-inch disks. Then use a drill press to cut out a 1/4-inch hole in the center of the disk. This large Lucite disk can be used with the wing retention bolt and it will not crush the trailing edge of the wing. Because the disk is transparent, it will be hardly visible when installed.

Cheap And Easy Wheel Chocks

A quick way to keep your plane in one spot is to use these wheel chocks made from 1/2-inch PVC pipe. You can vary the length of the side pieces to accommodate different sizes of wheels. Before gluing the final pieces, fill the assembly parts with sand.  You can make several of these for about $4 or $5 and a few minutes of your time.

Looking Good
Protect your aircraft’s cover scheme! Before you fuel it up, apply a thin coat of clear dope to the trim surfaces. This will also keep the trim from coming loose when you clean your aircraft.

Custom fit for your wing
Looking for a less expensive, effective and truly custom wing bag? Try Reflectix foil insulation that can be found at any hardware store. It is like bubble wrap with Mylar on both sides and comes on a roll.  Start by laying your wing on half of it and fold it over the top. Then, cut off the excess but leave a few inches around and a little extra for a fold over flap. Use a regular stapler, spaced as close as you can, to seal up the edges. You can staple the edges with the wing inside to give it a sung fit. Add handles made out of flat nylon cording purchased at a fabric store.

The post Favorite DIY Advice appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Let’s face it! Accidents are bound happen, and when it comes to flying RC airplanes, the chances are that you’re going to suffer some damage to your airplane. There’s no reason, however, to trash your crash. With today’s beautiful molded foam fliers, you can get back into the air with very little effort. You also can save some bucks by repairing your bent bird instead of buying new parts or an entirely new airplane.

What’s Needed

The supplies needed for any model repair are a hobby knife with sharp replacement blades, some masking tape, a sanding bar with medium sandpaper (100 to 150 grit), and some fine 220-grit sandpaper. The glue needed is 15-minute two-part epoxy, foam-safe CA adhesive, and foam-safe accelerator. Denatured alcohol is good for cleaning the surface of the foam and for cleaning up excess epoxy from repairs. We used an assortment of glue, including those by Bob Smith Industries and Flash Adhesives.

Removing Dents

Step 1: The leading edge of a foam wing can really take a beating, but dents are really only cosmetic issues. If you have a minor dent, simply apply a wet paper towel to it and heat with a covering iron. Most of the time, the steam will expand the foam and your dent will disappear.

Step 2: If the dent is more pronounced, you can quickly cut away a section of the damaged material with a razor saw and glue in some new foam.

Step 3: Cut some new foam to length, and glue it in place with foam-safe CA. The best way to do this is to cut the foam a bit oversize, and spray foam-safe accelerator to the new material. Apply the CA glue to the cutout area, and insert the repair piece. Hold it in place until the glue sets. Use your saw to remove most of the unwanted material, then use a sanding block to smooth the replacement piece.

Step 4: Apply a little hobby filler around the edges to fill in any gaps (Hobbico HobbyLite Filler is great for this).

Step 5: Once the filler has dried, use fine sandpaper to smooth the repair. If you need to, apply more filler around the repair area to feather out the repair area.

Step 6: Apply some matching foam-safe paint to complete the leading-edge wing repair. The hardest part of this repair really is finding matching paint. Usually, the instructions that come with your airplane will call out the colors used. If not, go to the hobby shop and check out the Master Modeler and Tamiya brands of acrylic foam-safe paints. You’ll be able to match the color chips and then lighten or darken the colors slightly to match. In real life, warbird repairs seldom matched the rest of the airframe, so welcome to scale weathering!

Mending Broken Wings

Step 1: In extreme cases, you might break a foam wing in two (or more!) pieces. A great trait of foam is that it is usually very easy to piece back together. Mix up a small batch of 15-minute epoxy on a plastic can lid. Run two or three lengths of each part as shown and then mix together.

Step 2: Place some waxed paper or food wrap under the wing pieces and then apply just enough mixed epoxy to cover the exposed ends of the break. Use some masking tape to hold the parts together while they rest flat against your work surface. Be sure to wipe away any excess epoxy that oozes from the repair using a paper towel and some denatured alcohol.

Step 3: After the epoxy has set, remove the tape. Using a sanding bar, smooth out the repair area.

Step 4: If your wing is more than 36 inches in span, use a piece of thin plywood that is 4 to 6 inches long and ½ inch wide as an internal brace. Using a hobby knife and a razor saw, cut a straight line all the way through the wing, as shown. Test-fit the plywood, then apply foam-safe CA and insert it into the wing. Apply some accelerator, and let the glue set.

Step 5: After the glue sets, apply model filler to the repair and let the filler dry.

Step 6: Using fine sandpaper, sand the filler smooth and flush with the rest of the wing surface.

Step 7: Apply matching foam-safe paint, and let it dry. The repair is complete, but you can also apply some decals over the repair area, if you like, to completely cover the mended area.

Repairing Foam Hinges

Step 1: It is not possible to repair a live-foam hinge, where the hinge is molded in as part of the control surface. It is best to install new hinges in the damaged surfaces. Before removing the surface, mark the locations for the new hinges. For this rudder, three 1/8-inch Robart Hinge Points will be installed.

Step 2: After marking the hinge locations, take a sharp hobby knife and slice through the molded hinge to separate the rudder from the fin. Use some sandpaper to smooth the mating surfaces.

Step 3: Sharpen the end of a 1/8-inch brass tube, and use it as a drill to produce the holes for the Hinge Points. This produces much neater holes than a wood drill bit.

Step 4: Mix up some 15-minute epoxy, and use a toothpick to apply the adhesive into each of the holes in the rudder.

Step 5: Insert the Hinge Points into the holes, and set aside until the epoxy cures. Make sure that no epoxy gets into the pivot pins. If it does, quickly remove the hinge and install a new one. You have about 20 minutes before the epoxy starts to thicken and set.

Step 6: Apply more glue inside the holes in the vertical fin, and slide the hinges in the rudder into place. Again, wipe away any adhesive that oozes out of the holes with paper towels and alcohol. Set aside until the epoxy sets.

That’s it! Let the glue set and get your pride and joy back in the air.

Please share your easy repair tips in the comments below!

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INSTALLATION 101

1 First, check that your servos are properly installed. Unless you’re flying a foamie or small electric in which the servos are glued into place, use the rubber grommets and brass eyelets that come with your servos. Install them so the wide brim of the eyelets are under the grommets (between them and the servo tray). Tighten the screws until their heads meet the brass bushing’s top edge. The rubber grommet will be compressed a bit, but that’s OK. The object is to have a secure, shock-mounted servo installation that won’t move when the servo arm is deflected. If the eyelet is installed with the wide end up, the grommets will be compressed so much that they won’t isolate the servo from the source of vibration.

DIRECTION CORRECTION

2 This is a crucial setup check and should be done before any linkages are hooked up. Does the control surface move in the correct direction relative to the transmitter’s stick input? Start with one servo and place the servo arm on the spline. Don’t concern yourself with whether it is exactly 90 degrees to the case. Turn on your transmitter and receiver and move the stick (top) that corresponds with that channel. If you see that the arm is moving in the wrong direction required for the correct control surface movement (middle), use the servo reversing menu and hit select “norm” to “rev” so the servo responds in the correct direction (bottom). Now go one by one through the remaining servos and correct their directions if necessary.

CENTERING THE ARM

3 First, all servos should be centered with the transmitter sticks and the control trim levers centered, then place the servo arm on the spline (mechanical portion). Move the arm’s position on the spline to get it as close to 90 degrees to the servo case as possible then, if necessary, use the sub-trim menu to adjust the arm’s position. Do the mechanical adjustments first; don’t rely on the subtrim function only. This can affect the servo’s overall control throws and end points.

For most elevator, rudder and aileron servos, the servo arm should be at a 90-degree angle to the case.

MECHANICAL HELP

4 Because the servo placement is usually pre-determined in an ARF, you need to mechanically (i.e. no programming) set the control linkage at 90 degrees to the servo arm. Determining which hole to use in the servo arm is simple: if you want more throw on the control linkage, place it in the hole farthest from the servo’s center; closer if less throw is desired. Different size models will have various linkage setup requirements, so consult the instruction manual for the proper linkage setup. With the linkage disconnected to the servo’s arm, there shouldn’t be any binding when you move it by hand.

SURFACE CONNECTION

5 The control surface’s linkage connection depends on the type and size model you’re flying. If you want to achieve maximum surface deflection, connect the clevis to the control horn using the hole closest to the surface. For large-scale and 3D airplanes, connect the linkage to the outermost hole (farthest from the surface) for maximum leverage; this also helps to prevent flutter. This photo (below left) shows threaded rods for control horns with plastic connectors to which the clevises attach. Note that they are at the end of the rod rather than close to the surface. It is usually best to have a straight line from the pushrod linkage’s fuselage exit to the hole in the surface’s control arm/horn. Sometimes a slight bend in the rod (top right) after it exits the fuselage is needed to relieve servo and linkage binding.

END POINTS

6 Depending on your brand of transmitter, you’ll see EPA, ATV or Trav. Adj. in your radio’s menu. EPA means end-point adjustment; Trav. Adj. is travel adjustment, and ATV is adjustable travel volume. These programs adjust how far the servo arm will move in either direction. Their default settings are usually 100 percent but can often be increased or decreased using the increase/+ or decrease/-keys. Use this menu when you have either too much or not enough control-surface travel when you try to match the manufacturer’s recommended settings.

Here’s an example. Your model’s elevator travel should be only 1 inch up or down, but when you move the radio’s elevator stick to its most forward and aft positions, the elevator moves 2 inches each way. While in this menu and on the channel you need to limit (in this case, elevator), pull the stick all the way back, hold it there and keep pressing the decrease/- key (lower left) until the deflection matches the 1-inch mark. Push the stick forward and do the same to achieve the correct amount. Note: if you had to reverse your servo’s direction, you might have to hit the increase key (lower right) to decrease the throw. If you need to increase travel, hold the stick in the mentioned positions and hit the increase key. Repeat this for your aileron and rudder deflections using side-to-side stick movements.

TWO POSITIONS

7 With the flip of a switch, dual rate commands two different amounts of surface deflection when you move a transmitter stick. Generally limited to the elevator, rudder and ailerons, dual rate is great for test flights, takeoffs and landings. The first amount of high-rate deflection was set when you adjusted the control-surface travel to the manufacturer’s recommendations. On your transmitter, dual-rate switches correspond with the mentioned channels. When you set your travel volume/high rates, the switches were either up or down. How you set them is up to you; some folks like to flip the switches up for high rates and down for low. Others prefer the opposite. Go to the dual-rate menu in your transmitter and note the switch position; these are marked with either a 0 and 1 or a 1 and 2. These examples show 1 and 2. The factory-set percentages for each position is 100 (top left), so leave your preferred high-rate switch position at 100 and flip the switch to the low-rate position. Using the decrease/- key, lower the percentage rate until the surface deflection measurement matches the recommended low-rate amount (middle left). As you do this, hold the corresponding transmitter stick to its fullest forward or back, left or right position and watch the surface deflection decrease down the markings on the ruler held in your other hand (bottom left) to measure the deflection amount. Sometimes, a third hand helps with setting the low rate. Now hold the stick fully deflected and flip the corresponding channel dual-rate switch back and forth. You should see the control surface move to two different positions (top right).

STOP OVERCONTROLLING

8 Exponential (aka expo) decreases the sensitivity of the stick inputs around the center of its movement. Whether you’re flying 3D or just taking off or landing, this function is extremely helpful for the over-controlling pilot and I highly recommend that you use it until you perfect your technique. On some radios, this feature is found in the dual-rate menu. In others, you have to go to the non-basic menu to find it. It’s best to consult your radio’s manual if you can’t find it. Once found, the screen shows “expo” and a percentage amount, usually factory-set at 0 (top left). Select a specific channel on the screen and press the increase/+ key to dial in the amount of required expo (top right). Sometimes, manufacturers have it listed in the instructions (you see this especially in 3D airplanes), or the amount is left up to you. Before you decide, it is best to note the amount of stick movement with which you fly. For example, if you’re flying a trainer and move the sticks all over the place, you want to set those percentages on the high side-usually around 30 to 40. If you have a finite control of the sticks, 15 to 20 seems to work well. High-performance 3D aerobats can require 50 to 60 percent or higher.

Some surfaces may require a different percentage than others, which is fine. Note that expo is set for each dual-rate position, so you may need to adjust the expo percent for the low dual-rate setting as well (lower left and right).

TURNING HELP

9 What is aileron differential? Simply this: when you move the aileron stick, one aileron deflects at a higher amount of travel while the other one deflects at a lower amount. This helps to prevent adverse yaw, which is the airplane’s nose initially turning in the opposite direction of the turn input, thus resulting in a slip during the turn. Who should use it? Pilots whose left thumbs are not quite adapted to adding rudder input when initiating turns. It is particular useful when flying high-wing scale aircraft and trainers, as it visually smoothes out the turn. As with expo, aileron differential is either in the regular menu or the non-basic and is also based on a percentage amount. When you bring up the aileron differential screen, you see a 0 as the factory-set percentage. Use the increase/+ key to add the differential to your aileron’s deflection. A good starting amount is 25 percent. Try that for a flight or two; if you discover it needs to go higher, increase by increments of 5 until you achieve the desired results: a smooth, coordinated turn when you only use the ailerons to bank the model.

THROTTLE SETUP

10 First and foremost, you want the throttle linkage to run in as close to a straight line as possible from where the linkage attaches to the throttle servo’s arm to its connection on the carburetor barrel’s control horn. Sometimes, a straight line is not possible and the linkage might need a Z-bend, usually within the fuselage’s radio compartment. There shouldn’t be any binding in the linkage’s movement. If there is, you need to mechanically fix it before you set your throttle travel on your radio. Now go to radio’s endpoint adjustment menu and dial up the throttle channel. You’ll note that it reads 100 percent in either the throttle-up or -down position (top right). Here’s one way to achieve the correct high- and low-throttle settings. When connecting the throttle linkage to the servo arm, usually with an EZ connector or Kwik Link, push the linkage in the direction that fully opens the carburetor barrel. Remove the servo arm from the throttle servo, slide the connector onto the wire and reattach the arm so it is in the full-throttle position when the transmitter stick and trim are set as such (above). Tighten the small hex-head bolt and your high-throttle travel position should be set. If you hear the servo binding, lower the percentage on this position using the decrease/- key until the buzzing disappears. You may only need to drop a few percentages to achieve this. Next, lower the throttle stick all the way to see how far the carburetor barrel closes (top right). If it closes all the way, decrease the travel throw until there is an opening that will allow air into the carburetor (above right). Lower the throttle trim and note the position where the barrel completely closes. If it doesn’t, adjust this by decreasing the travel throw (left). Your engine should completely shut off when you lower the stick and then the throttle trim. The throttle trim need not go to its max lower limit to stop the engine from running. Your engine’s travel limits are now set.

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“Bernard H. Pietenpol pursued his dreams of flight from the ’20s through his passing in 1984. His dreams were of planes powered by auto engines that nearly everyone could afford to build and operate. He first flew Gnome, then Ford Model-T powered planes without success. When the Model-A was introduced, Bernie had the powerplant he needed. The Pietenpol Air Camper would carry two people and reach speeds of 70mph behind its 4-cylinder, water-cooled Ford auto engine.”

The photos shown here are of a replica that was based at the Ole Rhinebeck Aerodrome for years and was part of the weekend airshow. It is painted in the original colors as Bernard’s first prototype.

Born in the Great Depression years, the venerable Pietenpol Air Camper is perhaps the most famous of all early homebuilt designs. Pietenpol’s famous parasol met the needs of the lime and was designed to get off the ground, putt along slowly so its pilot and passenger could enjoy the local scenery and then return safely (and in one piece) back to earth.

Bernie used construction-grade lumber and many inexpensive, surplus WW I aircraft fittings and hardware to keep the Air Camper as affordable as possible. Pietenpol designed his own under-cambered airfoil (similar to the USA-27 airfoil) for the Air Camper, and to this day, it is still the preferred airfoil for those building modem-day examples of the Air Camper. Bernard Pietenpol published his plans for the aircraft in Modern Mechanics magazine and wrote several articles for it as well as for Popular Aviation magazine.

Click here for 3-view Drawing: Pietenpol Aircamper Note: be sure to select “Scale to Fit” when you print out the PDF drawings.

Plans for the original 2-seater parasol are still available from:

PIETENPOL FLYING FIELD – CHERRY GROVE MN.
Attn: Andrew C. Pietenpol
7203 IMPERIAL AVE S.
COTTAGE GROVE, MN 55016

Home Number (6 5 1) 459-3209 Email: Andrew.Pietenpol@Gmail.com
Email: BHP.AND.SONS.AIR.CAMPER.AIRCRAFT@GMAIL.com

The post Planes Worth Modeling — Pietenpol Air Camper appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Removing the power spindle and replacing it with the drag knife attachment is as easy as loosing and tightening a single screw. The attachment has a nylon end cap with a hole in the center that houses the very fine drag knife. This knife is supported by a small swivel bearing for very smooth and precise operation.It simply slides into place and is held by the bearing.

(Above) Here’s the UCCNC program dashboard with the “MAN” drag knife tool path preview in the upper left corner.

To operate the system as a vinyl cutter, all you have to do is setup the UCCNC drive control program just like you would to run an end mill. You create the job with a program that produces the required G-code, (I used V-Carve Pro), and input the proper dimensions and setting for the job. Since the attachment is spring loaded, this requires a cut depth of about 2 to 3mm (1/8 inch), so when the knife is cutting the CNC lowers the tool slightly to keep it under spring tension. You input the g-code as you would for all jobs, then zero all the axis and enter the new job zero position. Next the Z axis is set so the knife just touches the top of your vinyl material.

Before you install the attachment in the tool holder, you first have to set the knife cut depth and this is easily done with the top indicator dial. Install the knife in the end of the attachment, and adjust the dial so the blade just barely protrudes from the plastic end cap. You can check the depth of cut by pushing the attachment gently on top of a piece of test vinyl and drag it. Inspect the vinyl and see if it has been cut. If the knife cuts all the way through the paper backing, you have to retract the knife for a shallower cut. When properly adjusted the drag knife will cleanly cut through the vinyl but will only crease the paper backing.

I made a simply “MAN” job and produced the g-code for the job, I then taped a piece of stick-on vinyl to the work surface with some blue painter’s tape.

To zero out the Z-axis I moved the cutter over the middle of the test material and used a piece of paper while lowering drag knife manually until it just touched the paper.

When I ran the job cycle, it took  less than a minute to complete the job. I then used a hobby knife to “weed” away the waster material leaving my letters cleanly cut and attached to the backing paper.

If you ever wanted a custom vinyl cutting machine, the Stepcraft CNC desktop system does a great job for any size letters or designs you care to make, (within the limits of the size CNC system you have. Give it a try, you can make all sorts of custom airplane markings, signage, decals, etc. Your imagination is your only limit.

To apply the new vinyl letters to you model, all you have to do is use a strip of tape to lift them off the backing paper and position them on the model.

Here the “MAN” graphics have been applied to the Sonic model. Suitable vinyl stick-on material is available online on Amazon and craft stores like Michaels.

The post Cutting Vinyl — Make Custom RC Vinyl Letters appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Next, understand that the “propwash,” generated by the turning propeller, spirals around the fuselage and strikes the left side of the vertical tail, thus producing a strong left yaw tendency during hover. Consequently, you’ll need constant right rudder inputs to keep the fuselage vertical. (Note: Building in a couple degrees of right thrust lessens the effect of the propwash while hovering, but it does not eliminate it.)

A great deal of the propwash also strikes the underside of the left stab, causing the plane to pitch forward during hover. Therefore, barring any wind, you can expect to regularly need up-elevator along with right rudder to keep the fuselage vertical while hovering.

There is also considerable left rotational torque while hovering, so you’ll need to hold in large amounts of right aileron to keep the wings stationary. If the plane continues to torque to the left despite holding in full right aileron, you may have to increase the right aileron travel. If you can’t keep the plane from torquing even with full aileron, you’ll have to boost the throttle higher each time the plane starts to torque to further increase the effectiveness of the ailerons.

CONTROL TECHNIQUE

The standard entry into a hover starts by slowing the airplane and then abruptly pulling to vertical, causing the airplane to suddenly stop all forward movement. Be aware that you most likely will need to input some right rudder and aileron to counter the propeller forces while pulling up to vertical. Then immediately start pumping the throttle to maintain the same height as well as control.

A hover will quickly unravel if you are late correcting a deviation, so keep your fingers moving at all times, even when the airplane appears momentarily stable. This will make sure that you’re always ready to respond to deviations the instant they occur.

As a rule, if the tail swings more than five degrees from vertical while hanging on the prop, it will be very hard to stop the deviation due to the pendulum effect. To minimize over-controlling, you must try to limit your rudder and elevator corrections during hover to small brief bumps or jabs.

If a deviation is larger than five degrees and requires a larger correction, any large correction will have to be immediately followed by a quick opposite jab to keep the response from escalating.

Try to limit over-controlling by keeping your inputs tiny and brief, and if you must input a larger bump, immediately input an opposite bump to limit the response.

ADVANCED HOVER TIPS
Since a sustained hover demands immediate corrections, use of too much expo will delay the control response and thus hinder hover success. If you feel that the plane is lagging behind your control inputs, reducing the expo settings will likely improve your ability to hover.

CG Considerations

It has long been said that an aft CG makes an airplane easier to hover. While a tail-heavy condition helps flat spins and tumbling maneuvers, after years of 3D flying and testing, neither an aft nor forward CG has proven to have much impact on hovering flight. In fact, more and more professional 3D pilots set up their planes these days slightly nose-heavy to make them more predictable and less erratic. All things considered, most pilots are best served to go with a “neutral” CG (near the wing’s thickest point or approximately one third of the wing chord) to achieve the best overall performance.

Although it’s rarely possible to achieve a perfectly vertically balanced airplane, i.e., with the tail hanging straight down, getting it as close as possible can make the airplane lock into a much easier hover. If you can, try to position the batteries and other items as high as possible in the fuselage to offset the weight of the landing gear, etc.

On the other hand, if over-controlling seems to be a persistent problem, i.e., the corrections you make typically end up causing more deviations. To solve this, in addition to practicing smaller control inputs, try increasing your expo percentages.

If your airplane exhibits an especially strong tendency to pitch forward while hovering, putting in additional up-elevator trim will certainly help. But the trick that works best is to aim to hover with the fuselage tilted a couple degrees toward the canopy.

Some 3D pilots like to determine the exact power setting that their airplane hovers at and then they flatten the throttle curve a bit around that setting to make the throttle less sensitive. On a similar note, using a lower pitch propeller affords a larger power sweet spot during hover in which the throttle is less sensitive and therefore less prone to over-controlling.

CONCLUSION

To avoid over-controlling, try to limit your rudder and elevator corrections to small, brief bumps or jabs when working to keep the fuselage vertical during hover.

While there will always be pilots who try to impress others by throwing the sticks into the corners until altitude forces them to recover, they don’t come close to knowing the satisfaction that comes from learning to hover. It may be challenging, but you can take confidence from knowing that you’re now armed with the knowledge to learn at a rate much faster than most! Good luck.

The post Secrets to Hovering — Master this 3D Move appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Learning to fly is always easier and more fun with the aid of an experienced instructor. He will help you avoid those first few beginner mistakes and will help your airplane live a lot longer.

The Sportsman S+ RTF with SAFE Technology from Hobby Zone is one of the new generation trainer/sport fliers that comes with onboard stabilization. It makes learning to fly very easy.

For the first-time RC modeler, today is a great time for getting started in the hobby. The newest generation of easy-to-assemble, almost-ready-to-fly planes come in a wide variety of types and sizes. From electric-powered park fliers and microscale designs to your basic engine-powered, nitro-burning sport and trainer planes, the amount of work on the bench is minimal. Compared to the good old days, our newest RC planes aren’t very labor-intensive to assemble. Many even come out of the box completely ready to fly without any assembly required. “Plug and play” is a big part the hobby today, and it very easy to be successful. Really, the hardest part is deciding which model plane and radio system you want. Whether it has an electric power system or has an engine bolted to the firewall, once you decide on the airplane you like, you’ll need a flight plan to earn your RC wings. Let’s take a look at some of the basic techniques that you’ll need to know to be a successful RC pilot.

GETTING STARTED

If you are the social type who enjoys talking about RC planes as much as learning how to fly them, joining a local club is the way to go. Meeting monthly affords you the opportunity to get together with other like-minded RC addicts; it’s a lot like group therapy for the aviation minded. Clubs usually have a permanent flying field, and membership costs are relatively inexpensive compared to all the benefits you receive. Being a club member, you’ll quickly find out where local instructors hang out. The hobby is a great way to make new friends and to find useful hobby resources. Reading Model Airplane News is also a great way to start.

RADIO GEAR

One of the first tricks to learn deals with control reversal. When the airplane is headed toward you instead of flying away, left and right turns feel reversed. To level your wings, simply move the control stick toward the lower wingtip. This will keep you flying straight and level.

For the beginner, it’s best to start with a RTF (ready-to-fly) airplane that comes in a complete package, which includes everything you’ll need to fly your plane, including the radio. This way, there are no decisions to make and you know everything will work the way it is suppose to. For the modeler who is looking to stay in the hobby for the long haul, the purchase of a radio system is a good investment.

A standard full-house aileron-equipped plane requires four channels to operate. The basic controls are the throttle, rudder, elevator, and the ailerons. Once past the basics, you’ll want to think about adding more functions, such as flaps and possibly retractable landing gear, so a 6-channel radio system gives you flexibility for future development. Programmable computer radios are very popular because of the amount of adjustments and control mixing that you can do with the various channels. The basic features include dual rates and exponential, servo reversing, servo-travel adjustment, and basic mixing. Computer radios today are very affordable, so consider them a good investment for your future needs. Also, most radios systems come without servos; when you buy your radio, purchase separately the size, number, and type of servo that you’ll need for your particular model.

GROUND SCHOOL

Yes, a lot can be learned with the use of a good flight-simulator program, but nothing speeds your progress more than some quality time one-on-one with an instructor. Having someone help you avoid those first few common mistakes will not only speed your flight training but also help prevent you from having to buy two (or possibly three) replacement trainer planes before you solo.

During those first few flights, a training plan can be developed, with each of your flights having a specific goal. Building on what you’ve learned from previous flights allows you to move on after you master the basics. Learn to taxi around first, then after you and your instructor are comfortable with you controlling your plane on the ground, you can move on to the takeoff, straight and level flight, turning left and right, and flying at slow airspeeds. While on the ground, you’ll learn how to steer with the rudder and how to work the throttle smoothly. After you get the hang of it, you can start flying at low altitudes so that you can get used to flying in the traffic pattern. Then, you’ll begin working on your first few landing approaches.

Throughout the process, remember that this is all about having fun! If you begin to feel stress, tell your instructor and let him take over. You have to take a lot of little steps before you can run. A good tip is to always be aware of the wind direction and how it affects your airplane.

Buddy System

Modern buddy-box training systems have cut the cable between the two transmitters and are now wireless.

By far, the best way to learn how to fly is with a system called a buddy box. A buddy box uses a cable connected between the instructor’s transmitter and that of the student, but newer radios do the same thing wirelessly. The buddy box allows the instructor to take control of your airplane simply by releasing a spring-loaded switch. Should you get into trouble, your instructor can quickly correct the plane and give control back to you. Available from many radio manufacturers, buddy-box training systems are often available from RC airplane clubs.

Until you are signed off for solo RC flight, the instructor will control the model during takeoff and then will fly it up to a safe altitude before transferring flight control to your radio. Compared to using a single radio (where an instructor has to take the radio from the student’s hands to regain control), the buddy-box system is much easier and safer.

This is a typical RC airplane training traffic pattern. Always take off and land into the wind, and use throttle to control your climb and descent rates.

It is always best to train when the wind is calm or at least straight down the runway. This way, the plane will go where you point it.

To fly a straight path when there is a crosswind, you need to crab the airplane (using rudder) so that it faces slightly into the wind. The stronger the wind, the more you have to angle the the plane’s nose into the wind. Practicing this will quickly increase your piloting skills. Remember to keep the wings level.

FIRST FLIGHT

As you gain experience and start to anticipate your model’s needed corrections, the instructor will give you more and more stick time until you’re ready to solo. There’s nothing more exciting that to hear your instructor say, “Go ahead. Take ‘er off this time!”

Takeoffs are actually quite easy. Most trainers and beginner sport planes are designed to be stable, and when you fully advance the throttle, they will want to climb almost by themselves. Concentrate on maintaining a straight path, and apply throttle slowly. If the plane veers off course, correct with a touch of rudder (a little right is usually needed to keep going straight down the runway). As the model gets light on the wheels, pull back a little on the elevator stick; the model’s nose will come up, and the plane will become airborne. Keep the wings level with small aileron inputs, and let the model climb out at a shallow angle. Don’t let the model jump off the ground at a steep angle. Don’t panic—just ease off the elevator stick, and if necessary, apply a little down (push the stick forward slightly) to keep the model at a steady climb angle.

Your instructor will teach you to fly the traffic pattern, and as you improve, he will have you fly at low altitudes until he’s comfortable with your command of the plane. Without you actually knowing what’s going to happen, a good instructor will talk you through the landing pattern and get you lined up for your first attempts. He will remind you to control the airspeed with your elevator (model nose high or low) and adjust your descent rate with the throttle. Once you nail that very first landing, it will be only a matter of time before you solo and can fly unassisted.

BOTTOM LINE
Like anything else, to get really good at flying, you’ll need to practice and stay with it. It is an investment of time and effort. In the end, however, the satisfaction you’ll feel when you take off and land by yourself will be well worth the effort. You’ll be a properly trained RC pilot with the entire hobby to enjoy. Whether you want to fly warbirds, racers, or aerobatic airplanes, it all requires training and mastering the skills needed to be successful.

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Learn to take advantage of your computer radio, and you’ll be able to improve your flying in a variety of ways. Having a properly set up plane with the right radio programming makes performing both simple and complex maneuvers a little easier. Let’s see what we can program in and how it will help.

DUAL AILERONS

Dual ailerons allow you to program some mixes that will keep the plane on track. Yes, in some cases, this doubles the weight of the aileron servo, but not always. Depending on the plane, you don’t always need a servo of the same size as you would use to power both control surfaces. You might be able to get away with using smaller and/or lighter servos because they each have to power only one control surface.

The programming advantages of having two separate aileron servos far outweigh the weight gain. When you install two aileron servos, make sure that you plug them into separate channels on the receiver. Don’t use a Y-harness because it will negate the programming advantages of having separate servos. If you have a servo for each aileron, you can use the spoileron or flaperon program, and this will allow both servos to work as one aileron servo. This program also allows the ailerons to serve a dual function: with a flip of a three-way switch, you can have both ailerons drop and function as flaps while still working as ailerons. Flip the switch the other way, and the ailerons move up and work as spoilerons-again, while still functioning as ailerons.

Both mixes also allow you to program in some aileron differential. This is the ratio of up-to-down movement of each aileron. Many planes need more movement from the upward-deflecting aileron than from the downward-deflecting aileron. This allows the plane to roll true, and it eliminates unwanted yaw when the ailerons are applied.

DUAL RATES

Dual rates allow you to switch from one control deflection to another. By simply flipping a switch, you can reduce or increase the amount of deflection. This feature comes in handy when you’re flying a plane that is used for normal flying and hard, 3D flipping around. Standard or low rates (small deflections) are used to fly the plane smoothly around the sky; but right before you enter a big 3D maneuver, you flip a switch and then have 45-degree movements (or more) on the control surfaces. Though you might need that much deflection for the maneuver, it would be hard to fly the plane smoothly and precisely at normal speed with those deflections; that’s where dual rates come in. When you’ve finished flying the maneuver, flip the rate switch back to standard rates, and continue to fly with lower deflections.

EXPONENTIAL

Another program that works with dual rates is exponential. Exponential programming is mainly used to soften or decrease control-stick sensitivity around center stick. Without exponential, a control-surface servo will move in a distance that’s proportional to the stick movement. For example, if you move the stick 50 percent of its available movement, the servo will also move 50 percent of its available travel. This is often referred to as “linear throw” or “linear movement.”

Using exponential (“expo”) changes the relationship between stick deflection and servo travel. With expo, you might move the stick 50 percent of its available movement, but the servo will move only perhaps 20 percent of its available travel. Of course, the servo travel depends on how much expo has been programmed in. Keep in mind that exponential settings do not change the servo travel available at 100 percent of control-stick deflection. If the stick is at the end of its range of movement, the servo will be at the end of its available travel. Exponential changes how much servo travel you get with stick deflections of less than 100 percent.

Expo helps pilots by reducing the stick’s sensitivity at center stick and allowing them to fly more smoothly with larger control throws. Imagine having large, 45-percent throws on a control surface on a plane flying straight and level. You move the stick ? inch, and the control surface moves Ω inch, so the plane veers off-course quite a bit and makes your flight look jerky and erratic.

With expo programmed in, that slight stick movement doesn’t cause any surface deflection, and your flight looks smooth and controlled. Expo also helps if your hands shake while you’re flying; it prevents your anxiety from being “transferred” to the control surface.

MIXING

If you use the mixing function on your transmitter, you can really improve your plane’s flight characteristics. These suggested radio mixes will help to improve the way the plane flies in a variety of attitudes. Radio mixing allows one transmitter control input to affect two or more flight functions. How much they affect the secondary function can also be programmed in.

RUDDER TO ELEVATOR/RUDDER TO AILERON MIX. This allows the plane to fly straight when you use the rudder, especially during knife-edge flight. To figure out what to program in, fly your plane in knife-edge. If it pulls towards the canopy or the gears, you need rudder-to-elevator mix; if it rolls to the right or left, you need rudder to aileron.

THROTTLE TO RUDDER. This mix will help the plane fly straight when at full throttle; it’s generally needed when flying a vertical upline. Most of the time, you will need to mix in a little rudder input when the throttle is at full. This keeps the plane flying straight during the vertical upline. This rudder input will be activated by the throttle stick.

THROTTLE TO ELEVATOR MIX. This helps the plane to maintain a straight downline. Most planes will try to “right” themselves as they build up speed when traveling downwards. If you program in a little down-elevator when the throttle is low, you’ll prevent this from happening.

That’s it. By taking advantage of your computer radio’s programming features, you can make any plane fly better. Check your radio’s manual to see whether you have these features and how you can program them in. Then see how quickly your aerobatic routines and maneuvers improve.

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