I used my CAD program to draw up a simple box structure with an attachment rim and then I had my buddy Pat at LaserCutUSA.com cut the parts for me. Of course you can just as easily make a similar design and reproduce similar the parts with a band saw and a drill press. The assembly is very easy to install and it took me about an afternoon to hang the engine.

I am using a Fuji 43cc with electronic ignition to power the Skyraider so I made the engine mount box/tank shelf long enough to accommodate the tank and throttle servo, with the idea that I would attach the ignition module and battery pack in front of the firewall.

I started by placing the engine over the side-view of the plans. The engine fits nicely in the cowled area of the reduced plans.

After aligning the prop hub position so it would clear the front of the cowling, using the engine’s attachment tabs I marked the new location for the firewall in the front of the mount box.

For strength, I made the sides of the box from 1/4-inch ply and the top and bottom from 1/8 inch lite-ply. I added notched the fronts of the four sides to key the 1/4-inch firewall face into place. Alignment tabs on the firewall and the aft bulkhead fit the slots as shown.

I made the firewall just wide enough to fit the engine attachment bolts, and you see here the blind nuts have been ground back to clear the sides. I also doubled up the firewall with a second layer of 1/4-inch plywood to properly seat the blind nuts. The total thickness of the firewall is 1/2 inch and the two layers are laminated together with Zap 15 Minute Epoxy. The firewall is also glued to the plywood sides with epoxy.

Once the box was glued together, I placed the box on the plans to mark the front of the main firewall.

Here are the two main parts of the engine box ready to be epoxied together.

I also had a new F-1 firewall cut with the required rectangular opening to clear the tank support section.

I then epoxied the new F-1 firewall to the front of the fuselage with slow setting epoxy and clamped it into place until the glue had cured.

I left off the bottom fuselage sheeting aft of the firewall so I could clamp the new F-1 firewall to the F-1 bulkhead.

Test fitting the box through the firewall, it  slides easily into place. The fuel tank fits snugly inside with some thin foam placed between it and the box.

I also added triangular balsa stock around the attachment rim to increase the gluing surface.

Looking through the cockpit opening, the two aft attachment points will use blind nuts and bolts to anchor the box to the fuselage’s vertical side structures. The bolts can be easily accessed through the wing saddle should you want to remove the engine and fuel system for maintenance.

Using scrap 1/4-inch ply, I set all the blind nuts so I could glue them into place for each of the six attachment bolts.

So the bolts installed, the engine is finally attached to the firewall and the engine mount box is attached to the main firewall for a solid installation.

TEXT & PHOTOS BY GERRY YARRISH

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SMOOTH THAT OLD IRON

Have you ever noticed the slick surface on a new covering iron after you first pull it out of the box? The iron seems to float on top of the plastic covering, giving you a beautiful finish. However, after time goes by and the iron gets a little older, the smooth Teflon feel on the surface just goes away. Here is a simple way to rejuvenate that old iron. When the iron is cool, add a little baby powder to the surface and rub it in with your fingers. This will give the contact area a new surface that will glide much more easily over your covering. You can reapply powder as needed to keep the iron gliding smooth.

PAPER TOWEL SHIM

I always have a problem with getting the socket-head bolts into those hard-to-reach spaces. Even though the socket-head bolts do hold on better than a Philips or screwdriver head, they tend to let the bolt fall off just before you can get it started. That’s where this trick is really going to save your day! Add a little piece of paper towel to the end of the ball driver and press it into the socket head of the bolt. You will find that this holds better than a magnetic head driver.

RECYCLE THAT OLD BIKE

Many bicycle spokes have the same thread size as a standard-size airplane pushrod, which means you could have 25 to 50 pushrods from an old bicycle wheel. First remove the tire and inner rim tape to get to the spokes. Now just cut the spoke near the center hub and slide it out. Cut it to length when needed. Many of the newer spokes are made of aluminum and are very light.

AILERON ALIGNMENT JIG

When setting up the aileron linkage, it is helpful to have a third hand holding the aileron in the center position. The next best thing is to make this simple alignment jig out of a clothespin and two pieces of balsa. Just put the two pieces of balsa above and below the aileron centered on the gap between the aileron and wing trailing edge. Attach the clothespin to hold the aileron in place. The soft balsa will help prevent the clothespin from marking the surface. Just be sure to remove it before operating the servo when testing the throws..

The post 4 Simple Shop Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

1 Charged Battery ID
If you have a bunch of battery packs you use over and over, knowing which ones are charged and which are not can get confusing. An easy way to identify packs is to place a small ID sticker on the packs after you charge them. Once you’ve used the pack for a flight, peel the sticker off so you’ll know it’s in need of a recharge.

2 Propeller Safety Tips
To prevent accidents, full-size aircraft are equipped with propellers that have brightly colored tips. Do the same with your model airplane propellers. Mask off the tips and spray on some bright yellow or white to make the prop tips more visible while it’s spinning. The finger you save might be your own!
 
3 Small Parts Sticker
When building (or repairing) a model, it is sometimes hard to place a wooden part properly inside a narrow fuselage. An easy way to do this is to use a sharp awl as a “part sticker.” Now, simply add glue to the part, stick it with the “part sticker” and guide it into position.

4 Emergency Screwdriver
It never fails that whenever you need a specific tool for the job, you’ll find that tool anywhere but where you need it. If you find yourself in need of a common, straight-blade screwdriver, you can always take a modeling blade and place it backwards in its handle. The exposed part of the blade can now be used to tighten that screw.

5 Throw-away Epoxy Mixing Pad
While mixing epoxy, use a pad of Post-It notes for the mixing surface. Then after applying the adhesive to the model, simply throw the used note away and you’re ready to mix some more adhesive. No clean up required.

6 Easy Control Surface Alignment

When you install and adjust your pushrods, it is better and easier to do if you lock your control surfaces in their neutral positions. Use a pair of coffee mixing sticks and a couple of clamping clothespins to keep the surfaces from moving.

7 Easy Clevis Keepers
If a clevis were to pop off one of your model’s control horns, you could lose control and crash. A simple and cheap way to prevent this from happening is to add a clevis keeper. Simply slice a thin section from some model fuel tubing and slip it over the clevis. It will act like an O-ring and keep the clevis securely in place without binding.

8 Handy Clamp
There are a hundred tasks in modeling during which you simply need a third hand. Soldering connectors to wire leads is a good example. In a pinch, you can use a pair of pliers with its handles wrapped with a rubber band. The pliers are heavy enough to act as a steady base and the rubber band provides enough clamping force to hold delicate items without damaging them.

9 Simple Building Board
You don’t need a complete building bench or table to build model airplanes; just use a straight piece of pine board. But to make it easier to insert pins to hold the wood parts in place while the glue dries, get some cheap Peel-n-Stick cork sheeting from a hardware store or a convenience shop and stick them to the building board. Place your plans on top and protect it with some clear kitchen wrap or wax paper. Should the cork get damaged or you get some glue on it, simply peel the cork away and replace it with a new piece.

10 Sheet Separator
If you build from plans or kits, you have to cover your model. Often, it is very difficult to separate the covering film from its backing sheet so you can iron it into place. The easiest way to do this is to apply strips of masking tape to each side and use them as pull tabs to separate the two thin layers of plastic.

The post 10 Field & Bench Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Simple Crush Plate

Purchase Lucite at the hardware store and pick up a 1 1/4-inch hole cutter.  Use the hold cutter to cut out some Lucite 1 1/4-inch disks. Then use a drill press to cut out a 1/4-inch hole in the center of the disk. This large Lucite disk can be used with the wing retention bolt and it will not crush the trailing edge of the wing. Because the disk is transparent, it will be hardly visible when installed.

Cheap And Easy Wheel Chocks

A quick way to keep your plane in one spot is to use these wheel chocks made from 1/2-inch PVC pipe. You can vary the length of the side pieces to accommodate different sizes of wheels. Before gluing the final pieces, fill the assembly parts with sand.  You can make several of these for about $4 or $5 and a few minutes of your time.

Looking Good
Protect your aircraft’s cover scheme! Before you fuel it up, apply a thin coat of clear dope to the trim surfaces. This will also keep the trim from coming loose when you clean your aircraft.

Custom fit for your wing
Looking for a less expensive, effective and truly custom wing bag? Try Reflectix foil insulation that can be found at any hardware store. It is like bubble wrap with Mylar on both sides and comes on a roll.  Start by laying your wing on half of it and fold it over the top. Then, cut off the excess but leave a few inches around and a little extra for a fold over flap. Use a regular stapler, spaced as close as you can, to seal up the edges. You can staple the edges with the wing inside to give it a sung fit. Add handles made out of flat nylon cording purchased at a fabric store.

The post Favorite DIY Advice appeared first on Model Airplane News.

The post Rocky flies again! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

“Bernard H. Pietenpol pursued his dreams of flight from the ’20s through his passing in 1984. His dreams were of planes powered by auto engines that nearly everyone could afford to build and operate. He first flew Gnome, then Ford Model-T powered planes without success. When the Model-A was introduced, Bernie had the powerplant he needed. The Pietenpol Air Camper would carry two people and reach speeds of 70mph behind its 4-cylinder, water-cooled Ford auto engine.”

The photos shown here are of a replica that was based at the Ole Rhinebeck Aerodrome for years and was part of the weekend airshow. It is painted in the original colors as Bernard’s first prototype.

Born in the Great Depression years, the venerable Pietenpol Air Camper is perhaps the most famous of all early homebuilt designs. Pietenpol’s famous parasol met the needs of the lime and was designed to get off the ground, putt along slowly so its pilot and passenger could enjoy the local scenery and then return safely (and in one piece) back to earth.

Bernie used construction-grade lumber and many inexpensive, surplus WW I aircraft fittings and hardware to keep the Air Camper as affordable as possible. Pietenpol designed his own under-cambered airfoil (similar to the USA-27 airfoil) for the Air Camper, and to this day, it is still the preferred airfoil for those building modem-day examples of the Air Camper. Bernard Pietenpol published his plans for the aircraft in Modern Mechanics magazine and wrote several articles for it as well as for Popular Aviation magazine.

Click here for 3-view Drawing: Pietenpol Aircamper Note: be sure to select “Scale to Fit” when you print out the PDF drawings.

Plans for the original 2-seater parasol are still available from:

PIETENPOL FLYING FIELD – CHERRY GROVE MN.
Attn: Andrew C. Pietenpol
7203 IMPERIAL AVE S.
COTTAGE GROVE, MN 55016

Home Number (6 5 1) 459-3209 Email: Andrew.Pietenpol@Gmail.com
Email: BHP.AND.SONS.AIR.CAMPER.AIRCRAFT@GMAIL.com

The post Planes Worth Modeling — Pietenpol Air Camper appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Here’s the Starting Point of the ARF Corsair

The Corsair comes with a molded-in floor allowing for only a pilot bust but I cut it away to installed a full-depth depth cockpit. I used the parts from a Ty’s Models cockpit kit, available from VQ Warbirds, to add a little extra detail to Pappy’s “office.” With all that taken care of, it was time to work on the canopy.

SLIDING CANOPY

I felt it was a shame to hide my scale Pappy under a full canopy so for this project I wanted the canopy to be functional. In the past I have only ever made canopies open manually, but for the Corsair, I went the extra mile and make the canopy open with my transmitter.

The canopy alone is very flimsy and brittle and running it under warm water before cutting helps ease trimming. I wasn’t confident that it would hold up so I ordered a replacement from VQ Warbirds which is identical in size and shape. I needed to stiffen the canopy frame so it would hold its shape while opening and closing. Using the original, un-cut ESM canopy, I taped it to the fuselage and made a simple external balsa frame to keep the canopy’s shape once I removed it from the fuselage.

External Bracing in place

I then removed the balsa cradle and canopy from the fuselage and sprayed the inside with some universal mold release. I then laid in two layers of carbon fiber cloth and allowed the epoxy to cure overnight. After popping it out of the canopy, it was trimmed to shape and became the perfect internal frame for my sliding canopy.

A little spray of mold release inside the canopy prevents the layup from sticking in place.

After the resin cures, the carbon fiber molding pops right out.

Nice and smooth and it fits the canopy shape perfectly.

Carbon fiber framework cut to shape.

For the guide rails, I used some slotted square brass rails and carefully installed them in the fuselage sides and along the inside edge of the cockpit opening. Ball links are used to capture canopy inside the rail and allows it to move with the use of a single, long-stroke air cylinder located forward of the instrument panel.

Guide Rails made from K&S Square Brass Tubes slotted with a Moto-Tool and Cutoff disk.

Guide Rails in position.

This arrangement gives a “push to open” and a “pull to close” operation. I cut the carbon fiber frame to shape with a Moto-Tool and a cut-off disc and then I glued the clear canopy to the inside of the frame. The canopy be removed from the rails by unscrewing the ball links which pass through the frames.

Operation

If I had more channels on my transmitter I’d put the canopy function on its own switch.  At the time I built the model, I only had an 8-channel radio so I slaved the canopy function off the flap channel with a Y-harness.

Internal Drive setup to open and close Canopy.

I set it up so canopy does not open during landings (with one notch of flaps dialed in.) The model doesn’t need full flap to land. After landing I add another notch of flaps and the canopy sides open. The flaps do move down a little bit more but it only on the ground and does not affect anything else. With a 10-channel radio, it would be simple to assign the canopy function to its own channel and open it on command.

Which way to the front!?

Having this bit of animation added to any scale plane greatly increases it realism and sends the “Wow Factor” right off the charts. For a little bit of work, you get a lot of attention. Give it a try, you’re buddies will be amazed!

Canopy all buttoned up, ready for takeoff.

Doesn’t look like an ARF anymore! Weathering helps a lot too!

 Article and photos by Sean McHale

The post Install a Sliding Canopy appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Learning to fly is always easier and more fun with the aid of an experienced instructor. He will help you avoid those first few beginner mistakes and will help your airplane live a lot longer.

The Sportsman S+ RTF with SAFE Technology from Hobby Zone is one of the new generation trainer/sport fliers that comes with onboard stabilization. It makes learning to fly very easy.

For the first-time RC modeler, today is a great time for getting started in the hobby. The newest generation of easy-to-assemble, almost-ready-to-fly planes come in a wide variety of types and sizes. From electric-powered park fliers and microscale designs to your basic engine-powered, nitro-burning sport and trainer planes, the amount of work on the bench is minimal. Compared to the good old days, our newest RC planes aren’t very labor-intensive to assemble. Many even come out of the box completely ready to fly without any assembly required. “Plug and play” is a big part the hobby today, and it very easy to be successful. Really, the hardest part is deciding which model plane and radio system you want. Whether it has an electric power system or has an engine bolted to the firewall, once you decide on the airplane you like, you’ll need a flight plan to earn your RC wings. Let’s take a look at some of the basic techniques that you’ll need to know to be a successful RC pilot.

GETTING STARTED

If you are the social type who enjoys talking about RC planes as much as learning how to fly them, joining a local club is the way to go. Meeting monthly affords you the opportunity to get together with other like-minded RC addicts; it’s a lot like group therapy for the aviation minded. Clubs usually have a permanent flying field, and membership costs are relatively inexpensive compared to all the benefits you receive. Being a club member, you’ll quickly find out where local instructors hang out. The hobby is a great way to make new friends and to find useful hobby resources. Reading Model Airplane News is also a great way to start.

RADIO GEAR

One of the first tricks to learn deals with control reversal. When the airplane is headed toward you instead of flying away, left and right turns feel reversed. To level your wings, simply move the control stick toward the lower wingtip. This will keep you flying straight and level.

For the beginner, it’s best to start with a RTF (ready-to-fly) airplane that comes in a complete package, which includes everything you’ll need to fly your plane, including the radio. This way, there are no decisions to make and you know everything will work the way it is suppose to. For the modeler who is looking to stay in the hobby for the long haul, the purchase of a radio system is a good investment.

A standard full-house aileron-equipped plane requires four channels to operate. The basic controls are the throttle, rudder, elevator, and the ailerons. Once past the basics, you’ll want to think about adding more functions, such as flaps and possibly retractable landing gear, so a 6-channel radio system gives you flexibility for future development. Programmable computer radios are very popular because of the amount of adjustments and control mixing that you can do with the various channels. The basic features include dual rates and exponential, servo reversing, servo-travel adjustment, and basic mixing. Computer radios today are very affordable, so consider them a good investment for your future needs. Also, most radios systems come without servos; when you buy your radio, purchase separately the size, number, and type of servo that you’ll need for your particular model.

GROUND SCHOOL

Yes, a lot can be learned with the use of a good flight-simulator program, but nothing speeds your progress more than some quality time one-on-one with an instructor. Having someone help you avoid those first few common mistakes will not only speed your flight training but also help prevent you from having to buy two (or possibly three) replacement trainer planes before you solo.

During those first few flights, a training plan can be developed, with each of your flights having a specific goal. Building on what you’ve learned from previous flights allows you to move on after you master the basics. Learn to taxi around first, then after you and your instructor are comfortable with you controlling your plane on the ground, you can move on to the takeoff, straight and level flight, turning left and right, and flying at slow airspeeds. While on the ground, you’ll learn how to steer with the rudder and how to work the throttle smoothly. After you get the hang of it, you can start flying at low altitudes so that you can get used to flying in the traffic pattern. Then, you’ll begin working on your first few landing approaches.

Throughout the process, remember that this is all about having fun! If you begin to feel stress, tell your instructor and let him take over. You have to take a lot of little steps before you can run. A good tip is to always be aware of the wind direction and how it affects your airplane.

Buddy System

Modern buddy-box training systems have cut the cable between the two transmitters and are now wireless.

By far, the best way to learn how to fly is with a system called a buddy box. A buddy box uses a cable connected between the instructor’s transmitter and that of the student, but newer radios do the same thing wirelessly. The buddy box allows the instructor to take control of your airplane simply by releasing a spring-loaded switch. Should you get into trouble, your instructor can quickly correct the plane and give control back to you. Available from many radio manufacturers, buddy-box training systems are often available from RC airplane clubs.

Until you are signed off for solo RC flight, the instructor will control the model during takeoff and then will fly it up to a safe altitude before transferring flight control to your radio. Compared to using a single radio (where an instructor has to take the radio from the student’s hands to regain control), the buddy-box system is much easier and safer.

This is a typical RC airplane training traffic pattern. Always take off and land into the wind, and use throttle to control your climb and descent rates.

It is always best to train when the wind is calm or at least straight down the runway. This way, the plane will go where you point it.

To fly a straight path when there is a crosswind, you need to crab the airplane (using rudder) so that it faces slightly into the wind. The stronger the wind, the more you have to angle the the plane’s nose into the wind. Practicing this will quickly increase your piloting skills. Remember to keep the wings level.

FIRST FLIGHT

As you gain experience and start to anticipate your model’s needed corrections, the instructor will give you more and more stick time until you’re ready to solo. There’s nothing more exciting that to hear your instructor say, “Go ahead. Take ‘er off this time!”

Takeoffs are actually quite easy. Most trainers and beginner sport planes are designed to be stable, and when you fully advance the throttle, they will want to climb almost by themselves. Concentrate on maintaining a straight path, and apply throttle slowly. If the plane veers off course, correct with a touch of rudder (a little right is usually needed to keep going straight down the runway). As the model gets light on the wheels, pull back a little on the elevator stick; the model’s nose will come up, and the plane will become airborne. Keep the wings level with small aileron inputs, and let the model climb out at a shallow angle. Don’t let the model jump off the ground at a steep angle. Don’t panic—just ease off the elevator stick, and if necessary, apply a little down (push the stick forward slightly) to keep the model at a steady climb angle.

Your instructor will teach you to fly the traffic pattern, and as you improve, he will have you fly at low altitudes until he’s comfortable with your command of the plane. Without you actually knowing what’s going to happen, a good instructor will talk you through the landing pattern and get you lined up for your first attempts. He will remind you to control the airspeed with your elevator (model nose high or low) and adjust your descent rate with the throttle. Once you nail that very first landing, it will be only a matter of time before you solo and can fly unassisted.

BOTTOM LINE
Like anything else, to get really good at flying, you’ll need to practice and stay with it. It is an investment of time and effort. In the end, however, the satisfaction you’ll feel when you take off and land by yourself will be well worth the effort. You’ll be a properly trained RC pilot with the entire hobby to enjoy. Whether you want to fly warbirds, racers, or aerobatic airplanes, it all requires training and mastering the skills needed to be successful.

The post Pro Tips for First Flight Success appeared first on Model Airplane News.

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Featured Photograph courtesy of Ken Isaac (RCKen)

“Since the WOTR is a flying event, I expected some polished, stand-out performances and I wasn’t disappointed. Some of the nicest, most consistent RC formation flying I’ve seen lately came from Model Airplane News contributor and owner of Best Pilots, Lyle Vasser and his buddy and wingman, Steve Forrest flying a pair of Top Flight giant scale Mustangs. They’ve been doing this for a number of years, mostly at meets and shows west of the Mississippi.

They are really good and impressive to watch. This isn’t two guys just flying similar models in the same chunk of sky, they really do join up, matching speed and altitude throughout their routine. As many of you who have tried it already know, it ain’t easy and takes lots of practice. They seem to have pretty much nailed it. Maybe they’ll make their way East so the other half of the country can appreciate their skills!

And of course, these amazing Mustangs also have the ultimate detail inside the cockpits–Best Pilot figures at the controls!

Post photos by John Dussold

The post RC Warbird Formation Flying appeared first on Model Airplane News.