I used my CAD program to draw up a simple box structure with an attachment rim and then I had my buddy Pat at LaserCutUSA.com cut the parts for me. Of course you can just as easily make a similar design and reproduce similar the parts with a band saw and a drill press. The assembly is very easy to install and it took me about an afternoon to hang the engine.

I am using a Fuji 43cc with electronic ignition to power the Skyraider so I made the engine mount box/tank shelf long enough to accommodate the tank and throttle servo, with the idea that I would attach the ignition module and battery pack in front of the firewall.

I started by placing the engine over the side-view of the plans. The engine fits nicely in the cowled area of the reduced plans.

After aligning the prop hub position so it would clear the front of the cowling, using the engine’s attachment tabs I marked the new location for the firewall in the front of the mount box.

For strength, I made the sides of the box from 1/4-inch ply and the top and bottom from 1/8 inch lite-ply. I added notched the fronts of the four sides to key the 1/4-inch firewall face into place. Alignment tabs on the firewall and the aft bulkhead fit the slots as shown.

I made the firewall just wide enough to fit the engine attachment bolts, and you see here the blind nuts have been ground back to clear the sides. I also doubled up the firewall with a second layer of 1/4-inch plywood to properly seat the blind nuts. The total thickness of the firewall is 1/2 inch and the two layers are laminated together with Zap 15 Minute Epoxy. The firewall is also glued to the plywood sides with epoxy.

Once the box was glued together, I placed the box on the plans to mark the front of the main firewall.

Here are the two main parts of the engine box ready to be epoxied together.

I also had a new F-1 firewall cut with the required rectangular opening to clear the tank support section.

I then epoxied the new F-1 firewall to the front of the fuselage with slow setting epoxy and clamped it into place until the glue had cured.

I left off the bottom fuselage sheeting aft of the firewall so I could clamp the new F-1 firewall to the F-1 bulkhead.

Test fitting the box through the firewall, it  slides easily into place. The fuel tank fits snugly inside with some thin foam placed between it and the box.

I also added triangular balsa stock around the attachment rim to increase the gluing surface.

Looking through the cockpit opening, the two aft attachment points will use blind nuts and bolts to anchor the box to the fuselage’s vertical side structures. The bolts can be easily accessed through the wing saddle should you want to remove the engine and fuel system for maintenance.

Using scrap 1/4-inch ply, I set all the blind nuts so I could glue them into place for each of the six attachment bolts.

So the bolts installed, the engine is finally attached to the firewall and the engine mount box is attached to the main firewall for a solid installation.

TEXT & PHOTOS BY GERRY YARRISH

The post Removable Engine Installation appeared first on Model Airplane News.

SMOOTH THAT OLD IRON

Have you ever noticed the slick surface on a new covering iron after you first pull it out of the box? The iron seems to float on top of the plastic covering, giving you a beautiful finish. However, after time goes by and the iron gets a little older, the smooth Teflon feel on the surface just goes away. Here is a simple way to rejuvenate that old iron. When the iron is cool, add a little baby powder to the surface and rub it in with your fingers. This will give the contact area a new surface that will glide much more easily over your covering. You can reapply powder as needed to keep the iron gliding smooth.

PAPER TOWEL SHIM

I always have a problem with getting the socket-head bolts into those hard-to-reach spaces. Even though the socket-head bolts do hold on better than a Philips or screwdriver head, they tend to let the bolt fall off just before you can get it started. That’s where this trick is really going to save your day! Add a little piece of paper towel to the end of the ball driver and press it into the socket head of the bolt. You will find that this holds better than a magnetic head driver.

RECYCLE THAT OLD BIKE

Many bicycle spokes have the same thread size as a standard-size airplane pushrod, which means you could have 25 to 50 pushrods from an old bicycle wheel. First remove the tire and inner rim tape to get to the spokes. Now just cut the spoke near the center hub and slide it out. Cut it to length when needed. Many of the newer spokes are made of aluminum and are very light.

AILERON ALIGNMENT JIG

When setting up the aileron linkage, it is helpful to have a third hand holding the aileron in the center position. The next best thing is to make this simple alignment jig out of a clothespin and two pieces of balsa. Just put the two pieces of balsa above and below the aileron centered on the gap between the aileron and wing trailing edge. Attach the clothespin to hold the aileron in place. The soft balsa will help prevent the clothespin from marking the surface. Just be sure to remove it before operating the servo when testing the throws..

The post 4 Simple Shop Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Featured Photograph courtesy of Ken Isaac (RCKen)

“Since the WOTR is a flying event, I expected some polished, stand-out performances and I wasn’t disappointed. Some of the nicest, most consistent RC formation flying I’ve seen lately came from Model Airplane News contributor and owner of Best Pilots, Lyle Vasser and his buddy and wingman, Steve Forrest flying a pair of Top Flight giant scale Mustangs. They’ve been doing this for a number of years, mostly at meets and shows west of the Mississippi.

They are really good and impressive to watch. This isn’t two guys just flying similar models in the same chunk of sky, they really do join up, matching speed and altitude throughout their routine. As many of you who have tried it already know, it ain’t easy and takes lots of practice. They seem to have pretty much nailed it. Maybe they’ll make their way East so the other half of the country can appreciate their skills!

And of course, these amazing Mustangs also have the ultimate detail inside the cockpits–Best Pilot figures at the controls!

Post photos by John Dussold

The post RC Warbird Formation Flying appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Supplies and Material

You’ll need Pacer’s 2-part Z-Poxy Finishing Resin (www.franktiano.com), denatured alcohol, mixing cups and stir sticks, paper towels, and fiberglass cloth. For all my “glassing” jobs, I use 3/4-oz. (per sq. yard) standard weave cloth. I get it from a company called Thayarcraft. I use their Type 106 cloth (.73oz) and it is very reasonably priced. The cloth is very fine and forms readily around curved shapes. Extremely easy to apply.

You’ll also need 220, 320 and 150 grit sand paper, and when it comes time for priming, some quick-drying automotive Spot and Glazing putty will make quick work of the little pin holes that will show up.

For current pricing, check with Thayercraft Inc., 710 W. Green Dr., High Point, NC, 27260; (800) 218-1375; www.thayercraft@cs.com

Start by cutting the cloth to size. It comes on a roll core and you simply lay it on a clean cutting surface and use  a new, sharp hobby knife to make a clean cut with minimal snags.

Above are the two halves of the Sub-Wing Structure. I have sanded it smooth and added filler to any dings and large seams. A quick wipe with a tack cloth makes it ready for the Fiberglass cloth.

I use throw-away mixing cups. A scrap of balsa makes a handy stirring stick. Just use a clean cup and plenty of paper towels.

Mix equal parts of PartA, PartB, and denatured Alcohol.

Drape the cloth over the part and apply a thin strip of resin down the center. This helps hold it in place while adding more resin.

Apply a second strip of resin 90 degrees to the first. This starts spreading the cloth out for a smooth finish.

Now add two diagonal strips of resin so you have a Union Jack pattern shown above. This smooths out wrinkles and loose patches.

When you get to the edges add more resin to form a bead along the sharp corner radii. This seals the wood. Now set the part aside on top of some blocks to lift it off the workbench and let the resin cure overnight. When cured, you can trim away the cloth and resin from the edges by rubbing it with 220 grit sandpaper. You can then cover the other side of the Sub-Wing with another piece of fiberglass cloth. Set aside and let dry overnight.

After the second large side is trimmed, apply smaller separate pieces to the left and right ends in the same way. Allow to cure and trim away the waste cloth with 220 grit sandpaper.

The front part of the Sub-Wing is covered with a single piece of cloth draped over both the top and bottom surfaces. Apply resin along the leading edge and then onto them top and bottom surfaces.

Allow the extra cloth to drape off the part until the resin has cured. Then use some 220 grit sandpaper to trim away the waste material.

Sand through the cloth and resin along the sharp edges and it will cut through the cloth so the waste part drops free. Don’t use a sharp knife as you will always cut into the wood.

Sand at a sharp angle to the edge and the resin filled fiberglass cloth will fall away without much wood being exposed. Sandpaper is the tool to use.

As with the main part of the Sub-Wing, the front piece ends are covered with separate pieces of cloth. Use the same techniques as shown above.

Mix small batches and if you have any left over, go on and use it to cover other parts. You can also use the resin to fuel proof engine and fuel tank compartments. No sense in throwing away perfectly good mixed resin. Maximize your usage buy thinking ahead and preparing the parts of your model needing finishing.

When sanding the resin beads along the sharp edges, use a metal sanding bar for a smooth straight, edge. Apply some more resin if there are any exposed wood areas along the sharp edges.

Once all the parts are covered and the resin has cured and the cloth has been trimmed, scuff the surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper and apply a second layer of thinned Finishing Resin and allow to cure overnight. Another sanding with 320 grit sandpaper, and you’re done.

That’s it! Stay tuned as we will soon be priming and painting parts of the Fokker Triplane!

Shop Tip: As I mentioned before with my covering tips, use a chemical blocking hand cream like “Invisible Gloves” while using any solvent and finishing resins. Afterwards you can clean up with mild soap and water.

The post Applying Fiberglass Cloth — Finishing model parts appeared first on Model Airplane News.

If you’ve thought that electric powered airplanes aren’t all that exciting, wait till you get a load of Mike Barbee’s latest Top Gun entry, the King Air ...

The post Road to Top Gun: Mike Barbee’s King Air C-90 — Update! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Used in the European Theater of Operations, Italy during 1944 – 1945. This particular plane was flown by Aberto Torres, the most experienced Brazilian pilot of WW 2 with some 100 missions.
Rogerio’s model is basted on the Top Flite Giant Scale ARF and is upgraded with an all-painted finish using Tamyia paint on (that’s a lot of those little  bottles). It has a DLE 55cc gas engine for power. It also has electric retracts and Rogerio says it flies like a dream.

Rogerio started in the hobby in 1968 with a rubber band “Paulistinha” free flight model. He stuck with these simple models up to a 2-meter wingspan gliders until 1978 when he moved to Control Line.

He became the Brazilian Champion at the MiniFair in 1989, and he earned several other top titles flying at several other local events. In 1992 he moved on to RC in 1998 and now is devoted solely to Scale. His biggest goal has been accomplished being a returning Top Gun competitor!

The post Road to Top Gun — Rogerio Araujo’s Brazilian P-47 Thunderbolt appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Top Flite produced a number of Corsair kits several years ago including the Gold Edition giant scale version and so an ARF version was a natural. Designed for 50cc gas engines, this new giant scale Corsair ARF was first shown off at the Toledo hobby expo and I just knew I’d need one for my RC hangar. With its great looks and impressive flight performance, this giant scale ARF is going to be just as popular as its predecessors were.

Unique Features

The ARF Corsair is a fairly uncomplicated build but it does take time to do it all correctly. It has well illustrated instructions and comes with all its major sub-assemblies factory built, hinged and covered with matt-finish Insignia Blue Monokote. The parts include the fuselage, wing center section, the outer wing panels and the tail surfaces. The vertical fin comes built as part of the fuselage and the multi-panel flaps have interlocking tabs so one servo can drive all three flap sections.

The wing center section is extremely strong and reinforced with an aluminum spar plate that includes the extended mount blades for the outer panels to slide onto.

The wing comes ready for Robart retracts to bolt into place and there are no accommodations for fixed gear. Wheel well liners come glued into place as is the fiberglass belly pan. The Corsair includes many formed scale parts, painted to match, including the canopy, engine cowling, tail cone and wheel well doors. There’s also a dummy radial engine kit and a detailed cockpit kit included.

All the hardware and additional laser-cut wood parts are nicely packaged to help make assembly go quickly. Fuel tank, throttle linkages and all the other hardware items needed to complete the plane are included. The scale 4.5-inch wheels and aluminum bullet-nose spinner are also supplied. I used a DLE 55cc gasoline engine for power, and it is equipped with electronic ignition and aluminum mounting standoffs. I chose a Xoar WW2 23×8 propeller and it works great with the engine.

For control, I used the Futaba 8FG Super transmitter with a Futaba R2008SB receiver. To power both the receiver and the Robart electric retracts, I used 2100mAh LiFE 6.6V battery packs (one for each system). I used Futaba S3305 and S3004 servos as suggested in the instructions and I installed a Hobbico HydriMax 5-cell Ni-MH 6V 2000mAh pack to power the ignition system.

Assembly starts with outer wing panels, installing the aileron and flap servos, control horns and linkages. Next the wing panels are mated to the wing center section so the attachment hardware and guide rods and pegs can be installed. Cap head screws secure the wing panels onto the joiner blades. Next ithe landing gear is installed and then the wing center section is mated to the fuselage with two long ¼-20 cap-head bolts and alignment pegs.

The horizontal stabilizer is both bolted and glued in place with epoxy. Solid wire 4-40 pushrods are connected internally to the elevator halves and the rudder. I used Zap CA glue and 15-minute Z-Poxy throughout the construction.

Bottom Line

Nothing looks and flies like a giant scale warbird. The new Top Flite F4U Corsair with its 86.5 inch wingspan performs just like the original Gold Edition kit while saving a ton of assembly time. Everything goes together nicely and the craftsmanship and quality of the wood and hardware are just great! If you want to strap on a big South Pacific bent-wing warbird and splash so dastardly Zeros, then this is the plane for you!

In the Air

During the Corsair build, I posted a 12-part workshop build-along series to show all the assembly details on the modelairplanenews.com website. Before the first flight I balanced the model with a Great Planes “CG Machine Balancer” and I ended up needing only about 16 ounces ballast fixed to a plywood plate attached to the engine standoffs. Using a gas fuel mix of 40:1 the DLE-55 fired right up and the carburetor needed only minor tweaking of the low end needle. I used a 2-line fuel tank setup with a T-fitting for filling and draining the tank. The test flight was flown by Kevin Siemonsen at the Central CT RC Club flying field.

General Flight Performance

Stability: Just like the original giant Corsair, this ARF is neutrally stable and not at all twitchy. It has a solid feel and responds well to control inputs at all flight speeds. Tracking: Rudder use is key. Aileron and rudder coordinated during turns make them smooth and predictable. On the ground, with a smooth application of throttle, there’s plenty of rudder response to keep the takeoff roll on course.

Aerobatics: This Corsair is a real dogfighter and can best be described as nimble. You can do all the same combat maneuvers the full-size Corsair did and it will make you look good while doing them. Plenty of power means good vertical performance so loops, chandelles, and climbing Immelmann turns are easily done. On the way down however, like on the back side of a loop or while exiting a Split-S, ease back a bit on throttle to lessen stress on the plane. Rolls are smooth and very axial.

Glide and Stall Performance: With the nose into the wind and wings level, the stall break is straight ahead. The Corsair has a modest wing loading so landings are pretty undemanding. The flaps are effective and help a lot to shorten the approach. Lowering the flaps on the test plane, did not make the nose rise or tuck noticeably and no elevator retrim was necessary. The glide performance is as you would expect for a large warbird, but should you lose the engine, keep the nose down and don’t lower the flaps. Also wait as long as you can before dropping the gear; (it will take about 8 seconds!)

Pilot Debriefing: Fly with a plan. Don’t just takeoff and then try to figure out what to do after you’re airborne. Make each flight a learning experience. Trim out the plane for straight and level flight and then learn how it reacts. Cycle the landing gear and check how the flaps make the plane respond. Operate the plane at both high speed and at lower power settings to see how it behaves. Before landing, make a few low level passes then setup a proper traffic pattern to bring it in. Think smooth and be smooth on the controls.

Robart Retracts Go Electric

The new Corsair ARF is designed for Robart Mfg.’s retractable landing gear to bolt right into place. The 1/6-Scale 100-degree rotating main gear (148E) and the double-fork tailwheel (160WCE) are exactly the same as the usual pneumatic retracts with the exception of the electric drive actuators that replace the air cylinders. The standard air tank and servo operated control valve and filler fitting as well as all the air line plumbing are all replaced with a single control box and a few extended servo leads. Everything else is the same.

What’s cool about the electric gear is that you can adjust timing delay and direction with simple jumpers, and the speed of the gear is controlled by the voltage of your battery pack. Higher voltage means faster cycle times. The system requires 4.8 to 9V and can be powered by your receiver battery pack or with an auxiliary pack. With a 6.6V Li-FE pack the retract time is about 8 seconds to up and locked. Another great feature is its “Amp Out” circuitry. This causes the gear to stop moving should something like a gear door get in the way while the gear are cycling. If this occurs, the gear stops and all you do is flip the retract switch again and the gear extends normally.

Specifications

Model: F4U Corsair Type: Giant Scale ARF

Manufacturer: Top Flite (top-flite.com)

Distributor: Hobbico (hobbico.com)

Wingspan: 86.5 in.

Wing Area: 1,376 sq. in.

Weight: 24 lb.

Wing Loading: 40.19 oz./sq. ft.

Length: 70 in.

Engine req’d: 50 – 55cc gas engines

Radio req’d: 6 – 7 channels (throttle, flaps, retracts, aileron, rudder, elevator, choke optional)

Gear Used:

Radio: Futaba 8FG Super transmitter, Futaba R2008SB transmitter, Futaba S3305 and S3004 servos (futaba-rc.com)

Batteries: 2x LiFE 2100mAh packs (lifesourcebatteries.com)

Engine: DLE 55cc Gas engine. (dle-engines.com)

Muffler: J-Tec Radiowave wrap-around Pitts style (jtecrc.com)

Propellers: Xoar WW2 23×8 (falconpropellers.com)

Static scale 3-blade prop: (ziroliplans.com)

Retracts: Robart Mfg. electric-powered mains and tailwheel unit (robart.com)

Pilot Figure: Best Pilots “Pappy Boyington” USMC Aviator. (bestpilots.typepad.com)

Custom Markings: Red5Designs.com “Marines” aircraft markings, Cal-Grafx custom propeller decals, rivets and screw head decals. (cal-grafx.com)

Highlights

• Excellent quality and craftsmanship

• Easy Assembly

• Great Scale Appearance

• Smooth and powerful flight performance

Aircraft History Lesson–Bent-Wing Beauty

By Budd Davisson

You don’t have to inspect a Corsair closely to know that it is a very complex airplane. The characteristics that make it so identifiable—among them, its inverted “gull” wing—must have kept manufacturing people up nights trying to figure out how to build them fast enough to meet the requirements of the War. From its compound curves to sophisticated forgings, its massive castings and intricate machine work, the Corsair was much more difficult to build than its brother-in-arms, the Grumman Hellcat. But when all of its parts had been screwed together and that big R-2800 Pratt & Whitney was kicked into life, it was nothing short of astounding. It could dish it out and it could take it, and many Marine and USN aviators owe their lives to the Corsair’s being able to bring them home even when huge chunks of it had been blown off. Although the Corsair had difficulty on carriers, shore-based Marine pilots used it to good advantage as they rose out of the muck on tiny jungle runways to remind the enemy why it wasn’t smart to sucker-punch America. With the Corsair’s help, Pearl Harbor was avenged many times over.

During the 13 years that separated the XF4U-1’s first flight from the production of the final one, the world of the fighter changed drastically. By the end of WW II, it was obvious that propeller-driven fighters were no longer needed. Jets had seen to that. Still, the Corsair stayed in production for another seven and a half years. That fact alone tells us how the Navy and Marines felt about their bent-wing beauty. The Corsair was born in the biplane’s twilight era, but it soldiered on to share airspace with Century Series jets. Those who flew it loved it, but those who faced it loathed it. And those are probably the best words that can be said about any fighting machine. — Budd Davisson

The post Blast from the Past! Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair with test flight video appeared first on Model Airplane News.

He’ll be competing with his nicely done Glenn Torrance Models Fokker 1/3-scale Fokker Dr.1 Triplane. The triplane has a 95 inch top wing span, and is 76 inches long. It weighs in at 44 pounds. Purchased as a wreck, Steve has spent many long hours restoring and enhancing the kit built plane.

Powered by an old DLE 100cc Twin cylinder engine turning a Xoar 30×6 German Axial style propeller, the triplane is controlled is a with a Jeti DS 16 radio with Futaba servos doing all the work.  Steven also installed a Bavarian Demon Gyro system.

The model replicates the aircraft flown by Paul Baumer, (The Iron Eagle), famous for his 42 kills.

Competing at the 2017 Blue Max Event in January with the Fokker the model flew absolutely beautifully despite the small scale rudder on which a number of fellow modelers commented. Here Steve receives the Spirit of the Blue Max award for his Triplane.

Steve is the owner of Bob’s Hobby Center in Florida, which is the U.S. distribution center for Xoar and Falcon Propellers, Booma RC/AR Radio Technology, and Balsa USA.

Photos by David Hart

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