By coordinating rudder deflection with the aileron (rudder moving in the same direction), you prevent the nose from skidding to the left. Adverse yaw is thus prevented; banks and corrections, even rolls, will be smooth and axial, and you will feel more connected to the plane.

When a loop-or any maneuver related to one-is performed in a crosswind, the airplane will drift sideways with the wind during the slower portion of the loop. This drift will generally happen as the plane rounds over the top of the loop. Consequently, a loop that was entered on a parallel flight path with the runway will exit downwind-no longer tracking parallel. If you don’t use the rudder, you will have to do a number of corrections afterwards to reestablish the preferred parallel track taken at the start of the loop.

To correct cross-wing drift, apply rudder in the opposite direction the wind is blowing. For example, if the crosswind will blow the plane to the left, a right-rudder wind correction would prevent it. Ailerons are for keeping the wings level before and during a loop. Don’t try to correct wind drift by creating a new [wing] deviation using aileron; sideways wind drift is a function of yaw, not roll.

The post Rudder: Use it to Fly Better! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

I used my CAD program to draw up a simple box structure with an attachment rim and then I had my buddy Pat at LaserCutUSA.com cut the parts for me. Of course you can just as easily make a similar design and reproduce similar the parts with a band saw and a drill press. The assembly is very easy to install and it took me about an afternoon to hang the engine.

I am using a Fuji 43cc with electronic ignition to power the Skyraider so I made the engine mount box/tank shelf long enough to accommodate the tank and throttle servo, with the idea that I would attach the ignition module and battery pack in front of the firewall.

I started by placing the engine over the side-view of the plans. The engine fits nicely in the cowled area of the reduced plans.

After aligning the prop hub position so it would clear the front of the cowling, using the engine’s attachment tabs I marked the new location for the firewall in the front of the mount box.

For strength, I made the sides of the box from 1/4-inch ply and the top and bottom from 1/8 inch lite-ply. I added notched the fronts of the four sides to key the 1/4-inch firewall face into place. Alignment tabs on the firewall and the aft bulkhead fit the slots as shown.

I made the firewall just wide enough to fit the engine attachment bolts, and you see here the blind nuts have been ground back to clear the sides. I also doubled up the firewall with a second layer of 1/4-inch plywood to properly seat the blind nuts. The total thickness of the firewall is 1/2 inch and the two layers are laminated together with Zap 15 Minute Epoxy. The firewall is also glued to the plywood sides with epoxy.

Once the box was glued together, I placed the box on the plans to mark the front of the main firewall.

Here are the two main parts of the engine box ready to be epoxied together.

I also had a new F-1 firewall cut with the required rectangular opening to clear the tank support section.

I then epoxied the new F-1 firewall to the front of the fuselage with slow setting epoxy and clamped it into place until the glue had cured.

I left off the bottom fuselage sheeting aft of the firewall so I could clamp the new F-1 firewall to the F-1 bulkhead.

Test fitting the box through the firewall, it  slides easily into place. The fuel tank fits snugly inside with some thin foam placed between it and the box.

I also added triangular balsa stock around the attachment rim to increase the gluing surface.

Looking through the cockpit opening, the two aft attachment points will use blind nuts and bolts to anchor the box to the fuselage’s vertical side structures. The bolts can be easily accessed through the wing saddle should you want to remove the engine and fuel system for maintenance.

Using scrap 1/4-inch ply, I set all the blind nuts so I could glue them into place for each of the six attachment bolts.

So the bolts installed, the engine is finally attached to the firewall and the engine mount box is attached to the main firewall for a solid installation.

TEXT & PHOTOS BY GERRY YARRISH

The post Removable Engine Installation appeared first on Model Airplane News.

SMOOTH THAT OLD IRON

Have you ever noticed the slick surface on a new covering iron after you first pull it out of the box? The iron seems to float on top of the plastic covering, giving you a beautiful finish. However, after time goes by and the iron gets a little older, the smooth Teflon feel on the surface just goes away. Here is a simple way to rejuvenate that old iron. When the iron is cool, add a little baby powder to the surface and rub it in with your fingers. This will give the contact area a new surface that will glide much more easily over your covering. You can reapply powder as needed to keep the iron gliding smooth.

PAPER TOWEL SHIM

I always have a problem with getting the socket-head bolts into those hard-to-reach spaces. Even though the socket-head bolts do hold on better than a Philips or screwdriver head, they tend to let the bolt fall off just before you can get it started. That’s where this trick is really going to save your day! Add a little piece of paper towel to the end of the ball driver and press it into the socket head of the bolt. You will find that this holds better than a magnetic head driver.

RECYCLE THAT OLD BIKE

Many bicycle spokes have the same thread size as a standard-size airplane pushrod, which means you could have 25 to 50 pushrods from an old bicycle wheel. First remove the tire and inner rim tape to get to the spokes. Now just cut the spoke near the center hub and slide it out. Cut it to length when needed. Many of the newer spokes are made of aluminum and are very light.

AILERON ALIGNMENT JIG

When setting up the aileron linkage, it is helpful to have a third hand holding the aileron in the center position. The next best thing is to make this simple alignment jig out of a clothespin and two pieces of balsa. Just put the two pieces of balsa above and below the aileron centered on the gap between the aileron and wing trailing edge. Attach the clothespin to hold the aileron in place. The soft balsa will help prevent the clothespin from marking the surface. Just be sure to remove it before operating the servo when testing the throws..

The post 4 Simple Shop Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

1 Charged Battery ID
If you have a bunch of battery packs you use over and over, knowing which ones are charged and which are not can get confusing. An easy way to identify packs is to place a small ID sticker on the packs after you charge them. Once you’ve used the pack for a flight, peel the sticker off so you’ll know it’s in need of a recharge.

2 Propeller Safety Tips
To prevent accidents, full-size aircraft are equipped with propellers that have brightly colored tips. Do the same with your model airplane propellers. Mask off the tips and spray on some bright yellow or white to make the prop tips more visible while it’s spinning. The finger you save might be your own!
 
3 Small Parts Sticker
When building (or repairing) a model, it is sometimes hard to place a wooden part properly inside a narrow fuselage. An easy way to do this is to use a sharp awl as a “part sticker.” Now, simply add glue to the part, stick it with the “part sticker” and guide it into position.

4 Emergency Screwdriver
It never fails that whenever you need a specific tool for the job, you’ll find that tool anywhere but where you need it. If you find yourself in need of a common, straight-blade screwdriver, you can always take a modeling blade and place it backwards in its handle. The exposed part of the blade can now be used to tighten that screw.

5 Throw-away Epoxy Mixing Pad
While mixing epoxy, use a pad of Post-It notes for the mixing surface. Then after applying the adhesive to the model, simply throw the used note away and you’re ready to mix some more adhesive. No clean up required.

6 Easy Control Surface Alignment

When you install and adjust your pushrods, it is better and easier to do if you lock your control surfaces in their neutral positions. Use a pair of coffee mixing sticks and a couple of clamping clothespins to keep the surfaces from moving.

7 Easy Clevis Keepers
If a clevis were to pop off one of your model’s control horns, you could lose control and crash. A simple and cheap way to prevent this from happening is to add a clevis keeper. Simply slice a thin section from some model fuel tubing and slip it over the clevis. It will act like an O-ring and keep the clevis securely in place without binding.

8 Handy Clamp
There are a hundred tasks in modeling during which you simply need a third hand. Soldering connectors to wire leads is a good example. In a pinch, you can use a pair of pliers with its handles wrapped with a rubber band. The pliers are heavy enough to act as a steady base and the rubber band provides enough clamping force to hold delicate items without damaging them.

9 Simple Building Board
You don’t need a complete building bench or table to build model airplanes; just use a straight piece of pine board. But to make it easier to insert pins to hold the wood parts in place while the glue dries, get some cheap Peel-n-Stick cork sheeting from a hardware store or a convenience shop and stick them to the building board. Place your plans on top and protect it with some clear kitchen wrap or wax paper. Should the cork get damaged or you get some glue on it, simply peel the cork away and replace it with a new piece.

10 Sheet Separator
If you build from plans or kits, you have to cover your model. Often, it is very difficult to separate the covering film from its backing sheet so you can iron it into place. The easiest way to do this is to apply strips of masking tape to each side and use them as pull tabs to separate the two thin layers of plastic.

The post 10 Field & Bench Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Simple Crush Plate

Purchase Lucite at the hardware store and pick up a 1 1/4-inch hole cutter.  Use the hold cutter to cut out some Lucite 1 1/4-inch disks. Then use a drill press to cut out a 1/4-inch hole in the center of the disk. This large Lucite disk can be used with the wing retention bolt and it will not crush the trailing edge of the wing. Because the disk is transparent, it will be hardly visible when installed.

Cheap And Easy Wheel Chocks

A quick way to keep your plane in one spot is to use these wheel chocks made from 1/2-inch PVC pipe. You can vary the length of the side pieces to accommodate different sizes of wheels. Before gluing the final pieces, fill the assembly parts with sand.  You can make several of these for about $4 or $5 and a few minutes of your time.

Looking Good
Protect your aircraft’s cover scheme! Before you fuel it up, apply a thin coat of clear dope to the trim surfaces. This will also keep the trim from coming loose when you clean your aircraft.

Custom fit for your wing
Looking for a less expensive, effective and truly custom wing bag? Try Reflectix foil insulation that can be found at any hardware store. It is like bubble wrap with Mylar on both sides and comes on a roll.  Start by laying your wing on half of it and fold it over the top. Then, cut off the excess but leave a few inches around and a little extra for a fold over flap. Use a regular stapler, spaced as close as you can, to seal up the edges. You can staple the edges with the wing inside to give it a sung fit. Add handles made out of flat nylon cording purchased at a fabric store.

The post Favorite DIY Advice appeared first on Model Airplane News.

SMOOTH OPERATOR

Razor saws are handy for cutting various materials, but their teeth sometimes “snag” the material, especially during long cuts on hardwood. Here’s an old woodworking trick that works equally well for modeling. Rub a slightly damp bar of soap on both sides of the saw blade. The soap acts as a lubricant and helps the razor saw cut smoothly without catching its teeth on the cut edge. Don’t use too much, though; if the soap builds up on the wood it can affect glue joints.

MEASURING UP

Did you ever find it difficult to take inside measurements in confined areas, such as the inside of a fuselage or between wing ribs? You can make a simple measuring gauge using two pieces of telescoping brass or aluminum tubes. Cut suitable lengths of ¼- inch-o.d. and 9/32-inch-o.d. tubes, and insert the small-diameter tube inside the larger one and then collapse the mechanism. Place the gauge in the area to be measured, and pull the tubes apart until they touch both sides. Mark and withdraw the gauge, and measure its length. You now have the inside measurement that you need.

TIE UP LOOSE ENDS

Your control over an airplane is only as secure as the plane’s servo-extension connections. Try this tip to make sure that yours don’t come loose during an aggressive aerobatic maneuver or a bumpy landing. Simply take the leads and cross them over into a half-knot, then plug them together. Any tension on the leads will draw the knot tighter and make it next to impossible for the connection to come undone. And if you ever need to disconnect them, you won’t have to mess with tape or glue joints.

FAR-REACHING

Sometimes you need to drill a hole in a place that your drill bit can’t quite reach. A way to extend the bit’s length is to use a fiberglass arrow shaft or brass tubing as an extension. A couple of drops of thin CA will securely hold the drill bit in the shaft. Using different-size fiberglass and brass tubes will accommodate bits of different sizes. Just be sure to plug the open end of the tube with a dowel so that you don’t crush the tube when it’s chucked in the drill, and don’t press hard on the drill when using the extension.

The post Favorite Shop Tips appeared first on Model Airplane News.

The post Rocky flies again! appeared first on Model Airplane News.

INSTALLATION 101

1 First, check that your servos are properly installed. Unless you’re flying a foamie or small electric in which the servos are glued into place, use the rubber grommets and brass eyelets that come with your servos. Install them so the wide brim of the eyelets are under the grommets (between them and the servo tray). Tighten the screws until their heads meet the brass bushing’s top edge. The rubber grommet will be compressed a bit, but that’s OK. The object is to have a secure, shock-mounted servo installation that won’t move when the servo arm is deflected. If the eyelet is installed with the wide end up, the grommets will be compressed so much that they won’t isolate the servo from the source of vibration.

DIRECTION CORRECTION

2 This is a crucial setup check and should be done before any linkages are hooked up. Does the control surface move in the correct direction relative to the transmitter’s stick input? Start with one servo and place the servo arm on the spline. Don’t concern yourself with whether it is exactly 90 degrees to the case. Turn on your transmitter and receiver and move the stick (top) that corresponds with that channel. If you see that the arm is moving in the wrong direction required for the correct control surface movement (middle), use the servo reversing menu and hit select “norm” to “rev” so the servo responds in the correct direction (bottom). Now go one by one through the remaining servos and correct their directions if necessary.

CENTERING THE ARM

3 First, all servos should be centered with the transmitter sticks and the control trim levers centered, then place the servo arm on the spline (mechanical portion). Move the arm’s position on the spline to get it as close to 90 degrees to the servo case as possible then, if necessary, use the sub-trim menu to adjust the arm’s position. Do the mechanical adjustments first; don’t rely on the subtrim function only. This can affect the servo’s overall control throws and end points.

For most elevator, rudder and aileron servos, the servo arm should be at a 90-degree angle to the case.

MECHANICAL HELP

4 Because the servo placement is usually pre-determined in an ARF, you need to mechanically (i.e. no programming) set the control linkage at 90 degrees to the servo arm. Determining which hole to use in the servo arm is simple: if you want more throw on the control linkage, place it in the hole farthest from the servo’s center; closer if less throw is desired. Different size models will have various linkage setup requirements, so consult the instruction manual for the proper linkage setup. With the linkage disconnected to the servo’s arm, there shouldn’t be any binding when you move it by hand.

SURFACE CONNECTION

5 The control surface’s linkage connection depends on the type and size model you’re flying. If you want to achieve maximum surface deflection, connect the clevis to the control horn using the hole closest to the surface. For large-scale and 3D airplanes, connect the linkage to the outermost hole (farthest from the surface) for maximum leverage; this also helps to prevent flutter. This photo (below left) shows threaded rods for control horns with plastic connectors to which the clevises attach. Note that they are at the end of the rod rather than close to the surface. It is usually best to have a straight line from the pushrod linkage’s fuselage exit to the hole in the surface’s control arm/horn. Sometimes a slight bend in the rod (top right) after it exits the fuselage is needed to relieve servo and linkage binding.

END POINTS

6 Depending on your brand of transmitter, you’ll see EPA, ATV or Trav. Adj. in your radio’s menu. EPA means end-point adjustment; Trav. Adj. is travel adjustment, and ATV is adjustable travel volume. These programs adjust how far the servo arm will move in either direction. Their default settings are usually 100 percent but can often be increased or decreased using the increase/+ or decrease/-keys. Use this menu when you have either too much or not enough control-surface travel when you try to match the manufacturer’s recommended settings.

Here’s an example. Your model’s elevator travel should be only 1 inch up or down, but when you move the radio’s elevator stick to its most forward and aft positions, the elevator moves 2 inches each way. While in this menu and on the channel you need to limit (in this case, elevator), pull the stick all the way back, hold it there and keep pressing the decrease/- key (lower left) until the deflection matches the 1-inch mark. Push the stick forward and do the same to achieve the correct amount. Note: if you had to reverse your servo’s direction, you might have to hit the increase key (lower right) to decrease the throw. If you need to increase travel, hold the stick in the mentioned positions and hit the increase key. Repeat this for your aileron and rudder deflections using side-to-side stick movements.

TWO POSITIONS

7 With the flip of a switch, dual rate commands two different amounts of surface deflection when you move a transmitter stick. Generally limited to the elevator, rudder and ailerons, dual rate is great for test flights, takeoffs and landings. The first amount of high-rate deflection was set when you adjusted the control-surface travel to the manufacturer’s recommendations. On your transmitter, dual-rate switches correspond with the mentioned channels. When you set your travel volume/high rates, the switches were either up or down. How you set them is up to you; some folks like to flip the switches up for high rates and down for low. Others prefer the opposite. Go to the dual-rate menu in your transmitter and note the switch position; these are marked with either a 0 and 1 or a 1 and 2. These examples show 1 and 2. The factory-set percentages for each position is 100 (top left), so leave your preferred high-rate switch position at 100 and flip the switch to the low-rate position. Using the decrease/- key, lower the percentage rate until the surface deflection measurement matches the recommended low-rate amount (middle left). As you do this, hold the corresponding transmitter stick to its fullest forward or back, left or right position and watch the surface deflection decrease down the markings on the ruler held in your other hand (bottom left) to measure the deflection amount. Sometimes, a third hand helps with setting the low rate. Now hold the stick fully deflected and flip the corresponding channel dual-rate switch back and forth. You should see the control surface move to two different positions (top right).

STOP OVERCONTROLLING

8 Exponential (aka expo) decreases the sensitivity of the stick inputs around the center of its movement. Whether you’re flying 3D or just taking off or landing, this function is extremely helpful for the over-controlling pilot and I highly recommend that you use it until you perfect your technique. On some radios, this feature is found in the dual-rate menu. In others, you have to go to the non-basic menu to find it. It’s best to consult your radio’s manual if you can’t find it. Once found, the screen shows “expo” and a percentage amount, usually factory-set at 0 (top left). Select a specific channel on the screen and press the increase/+ key to dial in the amount of required expo (top right). Sometimes, manufacturers have it listed in the instructions (you see this especially in 3D airplanes), or the amount is left up to you. Before you decide, it is best to note the amount of stick movement with which you fly. For example, if you’re flying a trainer and move the sticks all over the place, you want to set those percentages on the high side-usually around 30 to 40. If you have a finite control of the sticks, 15 to 20 seems to work well. High-performance 3D aerobats can require 50 to 60 percent or higher.

Some surfaces may require a different percentage than others, which is fine. Note that expo is set for each dual-rate position, so you may need to adjust the expo percent for the low dual-rate setting as well (lower left and right).

TURNING HELP

9 What is aileron differential? Simply this: when you move the aileron stick, one aileron deflects at a higher amount of travel while the other one deflects at a lower amount. This helps to prevent adverse yaw, which is the airplane’s nose initially turning in the opposite direction of the turn input, thus resulting in a slip during the turn. Who should use it? Pilots whose left thumbs are not quite adapted to adding rudder input when initiating turns. It is particular useful when flying high-wing scale aircraft and trainers, as it visually smoothes out the turn. As with expo, aileron differential is either in the regular menu or the non-basic and is also based on a percentage amount. When you bring up the aileron differential screen, you see a 0 as the factory-set percentage. Use the increase/+ key to add the differential to your aileron’s deflection. A good starting amount is 25 percent. Try that for a flight or two; if you discover it needs to go higher, increase by increments of 5 until you achieve the desired results: a smooth, coordinated turn when you only use the ailerons to bank the model.

THROTTLE SETUP

10 First and foremost, you want the throttle linkage to run in as close to a straight line as possible from where the linkage attaches to the throttle servo’s arm to its connection on the carburetor barrel’s control horn. Sometimes, a straight line is not possible and the linkage might need a Z-bend, usually within the fuselage’s radio compartment. There shouldn’t be any binding in the linkage’s movement. If there is, you need to mechanically fix it before you set your throttle travel on your radio. Now go to radio’s endpoint adjustment menu and dial up the throttle channel. You’ll note that it reads 100 percent in either the throttle-up or -down position (top right). Here’s one way to achieve the correct high- and low-throttle settings. When connecting the throttle linkage to the servo arm, usually with an EZ connector or Kwik Link, push the linkage in the direction that fully opens the carburetor barrel. Remove the servo arm from the throttle servo, slide the connector onto the wire and reattach the arm so it is in the full-throttle position when the transmitter stick and trim are set as such (above). Tighten the small hex-head bolt and your high-throttle travel position should be set. If you hear the servo binding, lower the percentage on this position using the decrease/- key until the buzzing disappears. You may only need to drop a few percentages to achieve this. Next, lower the throttle stick all the way to see how far the carburetor barrel closes (top right). If it closes all the way, decrease the travel throw until there is an opening that will allow air into the carburetor (above right). Lower the throttle trim and note the position where the barrel completely closes. If it doesn’t, adjust this by decreasing the travel throw (left). Your engine should completely shut off when you lower the stick and then the throttle trim. The throttle trim need not go to its max lower limit to stop the engine from running. Your engine’s travel limits are now set.

The post Stay in Control 10 Top Radio Programming Secrets appeared first on Model Airplane News.

“Bernard H. Pietenpol pursued his dreams of flight from the ’20s through his passing in 1984. His dreams were of planes powered by auto engines that nearly everyone could afford to build and operate. He first flew Gnome, then Ford Model-T powered planes without success. When the Model-A was introduced, Bernie had the powerplant he needed. The Pietenpol Air Camper would carry two people and reach speeds of 70mph behind its 4-cylinder, water-cooled Ford auto engine.”

The photos shown here are of a replica that was based at the Ole Rhinebeck Aerodrome for years and was part of the weekend airshow. It is painted in the original colors as Bernard’s first prototype.

Born in the Great Depression years, the venerable Pietenpol Air Camper is perhaps the most famous of all early homebuilt designs. Pietenpol’s famous parasol met the needs of the lime and was designed to get off the ground, putt along slowly so its pilot and passenger could enjoy the local scenery and then return safely (and in one piece) back to earth.

Bernie used construction-grade lumber and many inexpensive, surplus WW I aircraft fittings and hardware to keep the Air Camper as affordable as possible. Pietenpol designed his own under-cambered airfoil (similar to the USA-27 airfoil) for the Air Camper, and to this day, it is still the preferred airfoil for those building modem-day examples of the Air Camper. Bernard Pietenpol published his plans for the aircraft in Modern Mechanics magazine and wrote several articles for it as well as for Popular Aviation magazine.

Click here for 3-view Drawing: Pietenpol Aircamper Note: be sure to select “Scale to Fit” when you print out the PDF drawings.

Plans for the original 2-seater parasol are still available from:

PIETENPOL FLYING FIELD – CHERRY GROVE MN.
Attn: Andrew C. Pietenpol
7203 IMPERIAL AVE S.
COTTAGE GROVE, MN 55016

Home Number (6 5 1) 459-3209 Email: Andrew.Pietenpol@Gmail.com
Email: BHP.AND.SONS.AIR.CAMPER.AIRCRAFT@GMAIL.com

The post Planes Worth Modeling — Pietenpol Air Camper appeared first on Model Airplane News.

Removing the power spindle and replacing it with the drag knife attachment is as easy as loosing and tightening a single screw. The attachment has a nylon end cap with a hole in the center that houses the very fine drag knife. This knife is supported by a small swivel bearing for very smooth and precise operation.It simply slides into place and is held by the bearing.

(Above) Here’s the UCCNC program dashboard with the “MAN” drag knife tool path preview in the upper left corner.

To operate the system as a vinyl cutter, all you have to do is setup the UCCNC drive control program just like you would to run an end mill. You create the job with a program that produces the required G-code, (I used V-Carve Pro), and input the proper dimensions and setting for the job. Since the attachment is spring loaded, this requires a cut depth of about 2 to 3mm (1/8 inch), so when the knife is cutting the CNC lowers the tool slightly to keep it under spring tension. You input the g-code as you would for all jobs, then zero all the axis and enter the new job zero position. Next the Z axis is set so the knife just touches the top of your vinyl material.

Before you install the attachment in the tool holder, you first have to set the knife cut depth and this is easily done with the top indicator dial. Install the knife in the end of the attachment, and adjust the dial so the blade just barely protrudes from the plastic end cap. You can check the depth of cut by pushing the attachment gently on top of a piece of test vinyl and drag it. Inspect the vinyl and see if it has been cut. If the knife cuts all the way through the paper backing, you have to retract the knife for a shallower cut. When properly adjusted the drag knife will cleanly cut through the vinyl but will only crease the paper backing.

I made a simply “MAN” job and produced the g-code for the job, I then taped a piece of stick-on vinyl to the work surface with some blue painter’s tape.

To zero out the Z-axis I moved the cutter over the middle of the test material and used a piece of paper while lowering drag knife manually until it just touched the paper.

When I ran the job cycle, it took  less than a minute to complete the job. I then used a hobby knife to “weed” away the waster material leaving my letters cleanly cut and attached to the backing paper.

If you ever wanted a custom vinyl cutting machine, the Stepcraft CNC desktop system does a great job for any size letters or designs you care to make, (within the limits of the size CNC system you have. Give it a try, you can make all sorts of custom airplane markings, signage, decals, etc. Your imagination is your only limit.

To apply the new vinyl letters to you model, all you have to do is use a strip of tape to lift them off the backing paper and position them on the model.

Here the “MAN” graphics have been applied to the Sonic model. Suitable vinyl stick-on material is available online on Amazon and craft stores like Michaels.

The post Cutting Vinyl — Make Custom RC Vinyl Letters appeared first on Model Airplane News.